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Routes in Whippoorwill

28 Weeks Later S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
After Forever S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aimee's Jugs S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back to the Known S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bender S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blaze Got a New Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blimey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bongo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charlotte Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ching, Chang, Chong S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cowboy Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cowboy in the Dirt S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don Miron S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
East Meck Shoot Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fishbone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flight of the Kiwi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flounder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme a Clown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hat Change S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Holy Mackerel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
How Could Hell Be Any Worse? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Arguenots S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Java T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jay's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Johnny Bravo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jowiki S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Latch Key Kids S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Logos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Masuko S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Max Payne S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mojo Jojo Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Morse Code S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mythos T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nonameyet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pat-Agonia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pondless S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rehab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
SIN S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Six Gun Serenade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Straight Outta Lockmont S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tacos Pescados S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unholy Mackerel T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unnamed crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wafer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waverly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wendy's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Where have All the Gay Cowboys Gone? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whinerlamer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Steve Cater 1998
Page Views: 707 total, 8/month
Shared By: Joel Longo on Nov 1, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

A sustained fun climb on super solid white rock.

Climb up the easier terrain to the high first bolt. Continue up to the overhang where the business starts. Crimp hard and work to a jug and some easier moves to follow. Catch a much needed rest on the ledge and fire the last few moves on the increasingly slopier holds to a balancy finish.

Location

In between Masuko and Nonameyet.

Protection

6 bolts and anchor.

Photos

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BrianWS
  5.11+
BrianWS  
  5.11+
Just repeated this route and man, there is a pretty significant run between the last two bolts (20 feet or so?). There is no cruxy movement here, but the climbing is hard 5.10 on chalkless holds. It would be a clean, but very big fall.

There is a bomber cam placement (.3 BD or yellow c4) about 10 feet below the last bolt, about 6 o'clock. This definitely helps with the spook factor. Mar 26, 2017