Elevation: 1,688 ft
GPS: 38.236, -80.855 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 644,114 total · 3,730/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson, Pat Goodman

Description

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About a half hour north of the New River Gorge is the Gauley River drainage. The main northern shore of Lake Summersville is home to a host of high quality single-pitch sport routes. Ratings range from 5.easy (slabs left of Orange Oswald) to 5.14+ (in the Coliseum). There are plenty of as-of-yet unsent projects, and lots of new development potential, too. Water levels in the lake vary seasonally, which in turn affects the accessibility of certain routes. During warm months, the reservoir can be a great relief from oppressive summer heat. During colder seasons, the drained lakebed opens up as a treeless landscape that soaks up all the sunlight, making it a great cold-weather destination.

Beyond the main north shore Summersville climbing, Whippoorwill has great swimming and DWS in the summer, and amazing roped moderates in the winter. Long Point is another great early spring/late fall destination, with relatively few crowds. Farther downstream, below the dam that forms the lake, you'll find adventure crags along the Gauley River like Carnifex Ferry and some excellent bouldering.

CURRENT WATER LEVEL AT SUMMERSVILLE LAKE

Whippoorwill, Long Point, and parts of Summersville Lake are accessible when the reading for Summersville Lake at the link above is below 1600ft. When they drain the lake is dependent on many different factors and it's hard to say when it will be down/up with any sort of certainty.

Please note that there have been a few break ins in these areas. Make sure to park as close to the road as possible and keep valuables out of sight. It can be a bad idea to park behind the big hill at the parking lot!

Getting There

See individual crags for directions; all are roughly a half hour north of the NRG on Highway 19.

258 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Summersville (Gauley River) Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 151
Wendy's Arete
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 478
Hippie Dreams
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 305
She got the Bosch, I got Drilled
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 113
Latch Key Kids
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 147
Flight Path
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 175
Baby With A Nail Gun
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 164
Masuko
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 343
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 91
Barfing Butterflies
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 96
Maximum Overdrive
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 219
Under the Milky Way
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 264
Narcissus
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 137
Reckless Abandon
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 105
Tobacco Road
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 98
Apollo Reed
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wendy's Arete Whippoorwill
 151
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Hippie Dreams Summersville La… > Orange Oswald Wall
 478
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
She got the Bosch, I got Dr… Summersville La… > Orange Oswald Wall
 305
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Latch Key Kids Whippoorwill
 113
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Flight Path Summersville La… > Long Wall
 147
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Baby With A Nail Gun Summersville La… > Orange Oswald Wall
 175
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Masuko Whippoorwill
 164
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Satisfaction Guaranteed Summersville La… > Satisfaction Wall
 343
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Barfing Butterflies Summersville La… > Orange Oswald Wall
 91
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Maximum Overdrive Summersville La… > Long Wall
 96
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Under the Milky Way Summersville La… > Long Wall
 219
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Narcissus Summersville La… > Narcissus Cave
 264
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Reckless Abandon Summersville La… > Coliseum
 137
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Tobacco Road Summersville La… > Coliseum
 105
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Apollo Reed Summersville La… > Coliseum
 98
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Summersville (Gauley River) Area »

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