Elevation: 1,688 ft
GPS: 38.236, -80.8553
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 804,660 total · 4,155/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

Description

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About a half-hour north of the New River Gorge is the Gauley River drainage. The main northern shore of Lake Summersville is home to a host of high-quality single-pitch sport routes. Ratings range from 5.easy (slabs left of Orange Oswald) to 5.15 (in the Coliseum). There are plenty of as-of-yet unsent projects, and lots of new development potential, too. Water levels in the lake vary seasonally, which in turn affects the accessibility of certain routes. During warm months, the reservoir can be a great relief from the oppressive summer heat. During colder seasons, the drained lakebed opens up as a treeless landscape that soaks up all the sunlight, making it a great cold-weather destination.

Beyond the main north shore Summersville climbing, Whippoorwill has great swimming and DWS in the summer and amazing roped moderates in the winter. Long Point is another great early spring/late fall destination, with relatively few crowds. Farther downstream, below the dam that forms the lake, you'll find adventure crags along the Gauley River like Carnifex Ferry and some excellent bouldering.

CURRENT WATER LEVEL AT SUMMERSVILLE LAKE

Whippoorwill, Long Point, and parts of Summersville Lake are accessible when the reading for Summersville Lake at the link above is below 1600ft. When they drain the lake is dependent on many different factors and it's hard to say when it will be down/up with any sort of certainty.

Please note that there have been a few break-ins in these areas. Make sure to park as close to the road as possible and keep valuables out of sight. It can be a bad idea to park behind the big hill at the parking lot!

Getting There

See individual crags for directions; all are roughly a half hour north of the NRG on Highway 19.

302 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Summersville (Gauley River) Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 173
Wendy's Arete
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 539
Hippie Dreams
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 347
She got the Bosch, I got Drilled
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 132
Latch Key Kids
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 187
Baby With A Nail Gun
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 195
Masuko
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 405
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 109
Barfing Butterflies
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 110
Maximum Overdrive
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 73
Mutiny
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 257
Under the Milky Way
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 309
Narcissus
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 173
Reckless Abandon
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 125
Tobacco Road
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 122
Apollo Reed
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wendy's Arete Whippoorwill
 173
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Hippie Dreams Summersville La… > Orange Oswald Wall
 539
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
She got the Bosch, I got Dr… Summersville La… > Orange Oswald Wall
 347
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Latch Key Kids Whippoorwill
 132
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Baby With A Nail Gun Summersville La… > Orange Oswald Wall
 187
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Masuko Whippoorwill
 195
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Satisfaction Guaranteed Summersville La… > Satisfaction Wall
 405
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Barfing Butterflies Summersville La… > Orange Oswald Wall
 109
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Maximum Overdrive Summersville La… > Long Wall
 110
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mutiny Summersville La… > Pirate's Cove
 73
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Under the Milky Way Summersville La… > Long Wall
 257
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Narcissus Summersville La… > Narcissus Cave
 309
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Reckless Abandon Summersville La… > Coliseum
 173
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Tobacco Road Summersville La… > Coliseum
 125
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Apollo Reed Summersville La… > Coliseum
 122
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Summersville (Gauley River) Area »

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