Elevation: 1,821 ft
GPS: 38.245, -80.854 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 293,173 total · 3,593/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Nov 27, 2013 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: SmithVentures, Pnelson
Access Issue: COVID 19 UPDATE: PLEASE FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF THE ACCESS FUND, AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB, NRAC, AND OTHERS BY NOT COMING TO THE NRG DURING THIS HEALTH CRISIS Details

Description

Summersville Lake is formed in the gorge of the Gauley River, and houses one of the New River Gorge's best concentrations of sport lines from 5.6 to 5.14d. Overall, the rock is more featured and more closely bolted than the lines of the New River Gorge proper. Be aware that many lines (including literally ALL of Long Point and Whippoorwill) are inaccessible except by boat from about April to November, due to the reservoir waterline. Deep water soloing can be popular here, but is illegal.

Getting There

Follow Rte. 19 north from Fayetteville and the NRG for about 20 miles. After crossing the obvious bridge over the lake (with views of the cliffline on both sides), park in a large lot on the east (right) side of the road. Although the following directions may sound complex, if you just follow the main signs of foot traffic, you'll get directly to the crags.

Follow Rte. 19 north out of Fayetteville for about 20 miles, almost reaching the town of Summersville. After crossing the obvious Gauley River bridge, park in a large lot on the east (right) side of the road.

Follow a wide trail through a gate for 5-10 minutes keeping an eye out for a left exit that descends down over a small creek. Just pass this creek crossing and at a gravel berm, take a right back into the woods via a more narrow trail. Follow this for another 5-10 minutes before taking another right down to a creek, and then a ladder that puts you near the DC Memorial Boulder.

If you are bringing dogs that cannot descend the ladder, take the following, longer direction:

Go to the ladder, then double back to the first right and keep your dog leashed, stay right for ~10 minutes until you find two houses. When on the trail follow the red blazed tress down the to gully. This puts you out about 3-5 minutes climber's right of Orange Oswald. Please remember to keep your dogs leashed in this area.

123 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Summersville Lake (main)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 411
Hippie Dreams
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 342
Orange Oswald
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 274
She got the Bosch, I got Drilled
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 174
Strong Arming the Little Guy
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 120
Flight Path
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 151
Baby With A Nail Gun
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 104
Going Ballistic
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 297
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 85
Barfing Butterflies
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 80
Maximum Overdrive
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 190
Under the Milky Way
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 226
Narcissus
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 121
Reckless Abandon
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 94
Tobacco Road
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 85
Apollo Reed
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hippie Dreams Orange Oswald Wall
 411
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Orange Oswald Orange Oswald Wall
 342
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
She got the Bosch, I got Dr… Orange Oswald Wall
 274
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Strong Arming the Little Guy Orange Oswald Wall
 174
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Flight Path Long Wall
 120
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Baby With A Nail Gun Orange Oswald Wall
 151
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Going Ballistic Long Wall
 104
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Satisfaction Guaranteed Satisfaction Wall
 297
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Barfing Butterflies Orange Oswald Wall
 85
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Maximum Overdrive Long Wall
 80
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Under the Milky Way Long Wall
 190
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Narcissus Narcissus Cave
 226
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Reckless Abandon Coliseum
 121
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Tobacco Road Coliseum
 94
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Apollo Reed Coliseum
 85
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Summersville Lake (main) »

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