Elevation: 1,821 ft
GPS: 38.245, -80.854 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 386,027 total · 4,056/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Nov 27, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson, Pat Goodman

Description

Summersville Lake is formed in the gorge of the Gauley River, and houses one of the New River Gorge's best concentrations of sport lines from 5.6 to 5.15a. Overall, the rock is more featured and more closely bolted than the lines of the New River Gorge proper. Be aware that many lines (including literally ALL of Long Point and Whippoorwill) are inaccessible except by boat from about April to November, due to the reservoir waterline. 

Getting There

Follow Rte. 19 north from Fayetteville and the NRG for about 20 miles. After crossing the obvious bridge over the lake (with views of the cliffline on both sides), park in a large lot on the east (right) side of the road. Although the following directions may sound complex, if you just follow the main signs of foot traffic, you'll get directly to the crags.

Follow Rte. 19 north out of Fayetteville for about 20 miles, almost reaching the town of Summersville. After crossing the obvious Gauley River bridge, park in a large lot on the east (right) side of the road.

Follow a wide trail through a gate for 5-10 minutes keeping an eye out for a left exit that descends down over a small creek. Just pass this creek crossing and at a gravel berm, take a right back into the woods via a more narrow trail. Follow this for another 5-10 minutes before taking another right down to a creek, and then a staircase that puts you near the DC Memorial Boulder.

In 2020, NRAC and the USACE Army Corp updated the wooden ladder to a new and improved metal staircase. The staircase is easy to use and makes the lake climbing more accessible for those with small children and dogs.  

130 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Summersville Lake (main)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 481
Hippie Dreams
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 389
Orange Oswald
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 305
She got the Bosch, I got Drilled
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 190
Strong Arming the Little Guy
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 147
Flight Path
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 175
Baby With A Nail Gun
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 121
Going Ballistic
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 344
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 91
Barfing Butterflies
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 96
Maximum Overdrive
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 220
Under the Milky Way
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 264
Narcissus
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 139
Reckless Abandon
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 105
Tobacco Road
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 98
Apollo Reed
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hippie Dreams Orange Oswald Wall
 481
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Orange Oswald Orange Oswald Wall
 389
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
She got the Bosch, I got Dr… Orange Oswald Wall
 305
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Strong Arming the Little Guy Orange Oswald Wall
 190
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Flight Path Long Wall
 147
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Baby With A Nail Gun Orange Oswald Wall
 175
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Going Ballistic Long Wall
 121
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Satisfaction Guaranteed Satisfaction Wall
 344
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Barfing Butterflies Orange Oswald Wall
 91
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Maximum Overdrive Long Wall
 96
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Under the Milky Way Long Wall
 220
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Narcissus Narcissus Cave
 264
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Reckless Abandon Coliseum
 139
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Tobacco Road Coliseum
 105
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Apollo Reed Coliseum
 98
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Summersville Lake (main) »

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