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Routes in The Long Wall

Chewy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fifty Fifty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flight Path S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flirting with E S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Going Ballistic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Maximum Overdrive S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Menace Alert S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Overdrive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Way, Jose' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
On the Porch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quarryman's Hands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ragged Reaction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocky Top Hilton S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seven Minutes of Heaven S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Six Dollars S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spice S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Cold Dixie S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under the Milky Way S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Doug Cosby 1991
Page Views: 1,399 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ladd on Jul 31, 2007 with updates
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Make a strange 1st move and crimp your way to a hand jam rest. make another equally hard deadpoint/dyno then setup for the crux, work out left on undercling deadpoint for a side pull and then make tenuous moves up the crimpy flake with the pump clock ticking. Make some final moves that go at 10+/11- but with pump feel like 5.13, grab the clipping jug way up right and clip those anchors...man that climb was hard.

The crux of this climb is very insecure and involves traversing on bad underclings with bad feet then deadpointing without letting your feet slip.

Location

1st bolted climb right of Under the Milky Way (arete)

Protection

6 bolts to anchors

Photos

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jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Also known as, "World at War." Aug 16, 2015