Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 12,034 total · 86/month
Shared By: Chad Umbel on May 26, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


95 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

A fine route on the best sandstone at the lake. Awesome positioning over the water on perfect white sandstone that climbs like Yosemite granite. Walk past all of the routes in the impressive Coliseum and end up on a terrace that takes you to the start of the route. There are three routes here. Reckless is the furthest left of the three.

Climb up onto a ledge and try not to blow the first move or you'll end up in the drink. Clip a bolt and do a big move up to nice horizontals. Surf up and right to a nice leg bar and make moves straight up and eventually heading left.

The crux is at the 4th bolt and can be done a few different ways; it's pretty common for folks to go WAY left here; this is off route and should not be considered a send!

After this, cruise up nice terrain through steep jugs, fingerlocks, and a fun dihedral to the cold shuts. 

Location

This climb is the farthest climb to climber left from the ladders at "high tide" (when the lake is full)(April-September).

Protection

6 bolts, bolted anchor
Christopher Hill
Charlottesville, VA
  5.12b
Christopher Hill   Charlottesville, VA
  5.12b
When the water's up, be sure to walk a good ways back towards the main cave when you pull your rope, or you'll be wringing it out for the next few hours. Aug 20, 2009
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
  5.12a/b
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
  5.12a/b
Agreed on the left traverse being off. If you ever find yourself having to flick your rope around the arete, then you didn't do the crux.

This is the only small thing that kind of takes away from this ultra-classic route. May 29, 2012
BrianWS
  5.12b
BrianWS  
  5.12b
Question: Did this route ever go direct up at the 4th bolt? Or, has the slight traverse onto the right side of the bulge out just left always been the official line?

To add further disincentive for traversing left of the bulge (i.e. cheating), someone with remarkably good aim managed to toss a beer bottle onto the jugs, covering them with glass. Jun 16, 2013
yeah the hold broke a long time ago. Jun 17, 2013
Pnelson

5.12a/b
Pnelson    
5.12a/b
I believe that a hold did break at the crux, but I just repeated this route yesterday, and it is still possible to do it straight up the shallow dihedral at the fourth bolt. People who go left should thus be subjected to ridicule and shame! Apr 10, 2015
If you go left at the 4th bolt, you deny yourself a most awesome crux experience. Basically if you go left you replace a rad crux with locker hand jams in a comfortable stance. This changes the entire experience for sure, I recommend going straight up. The route lives up to the hype: so good! Nov 29, 2015
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
It's always funny watching people climb completely left around the crux and say they sent a 12a. May 8, 2016