Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 30,136 total · 173/month
Shared By: bldrite on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson, Pat Goodman

You & This Route


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Description

A classic jug haul. Some will argue the grade; Brian McCray (rip) once quipped that this is "everyone's first 5.13, until they get on a real 5.13." But while sending this rig definitely won't help you on your journey to sending Quinsana Plus (let along Greatest Show), it still feels right in line with other classic endurance lines of the grade in the area and around the country. 

Easy climbing to the second bolt over a roof at the "shield," where you'll encounter the most beta-intensive sequence of the route. Lots of folks have called this the crux, but it's not. Pumpy fun climbing from there up to the 7th bolt, where the holds get smaller and farther apart for three or four moves. Nail the left hand jug pocket and subsequent mega jugs, and you've got it in the bag. To get full credit for the send you need to take it to the top of the cliff, but repeaters usually clip the last fixed draw at the final roof lip and lower off. Did I mention that this thing was classic?

Location

Coliseum, Summersville Lake

Protection

11 bolts, all but the first one is fixed.

Photos