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Mutiny

5.11c, Sport, 75 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 41 votes
FA: Doug Cosby 1991
West Virginia > The New River G… > Summersville an… > Summersville La… > Pirate's Cove
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Mutiny is the obvious, razor-sharp overhanging arete at Pirates' Cove -- only accessible during low water. Boulder up to a high first clip, and continue clipping bolts on the right side of the arete, using holds on both sides, to a crux move near the anchors. The climb is often dirty due to high water, but it is classic nevertheless.

Protection

6 bolts to cold shuts. If you don't have a stick, or can't reach the first from the ground, a #3 Camalot fits nicely in the horizontal before the first bolt. The climbing up to there is relatively mild.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jeremy Steck on Mutiny.
[Hide Photo] Jeremy Steck on Mutiny.
Mutiny. Fall, 1999.
[Hide Photo] Mutiny. Fall, 1999.
Photo by Dan Brayack
[Hide Photo] Photo by Dan Brayack
Mutiny Arete from afar
[Hide Photo] Mutiny Arete from afar
Drew Davis on Mutiny, 5.11d. Photo by Nate Davey.
[Hide Photo] Drew Davis on Mutiny, 5.11d. Photo by Nate Davey.
Josh J. on Mutiny 10/19/13
[Hide Photo] Josh J. on Mutiny 10/19/13
Mutiny in May. There boulders below the surface of the water, so not great for DWS.
[Hide Photo] Mutiny in May. There boulders below the surface of the water, so not great for DWS.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
[Hide Comment] Pretty soft for 11c, just saying. Nov 11, 2014
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
[Hide Comment] Those last moves though- if you don't cheat and venture left to the arete...

Felt like .11c to me. Though, I'm no Chris Whisenhunt- and Mike gives it .11d. Oct 22, 2015
[Hide Comment] Anyone done this route out of a boat in high water? Could make for an incredible photo... Aug 29, 2016
Jacob Sustrich
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] Dylan, general consensus I've heard is that DWS on this one is a no-go due to submerged boulders. Unless you're meaning to belay from a boat. Sep 13, 2016
Cragmama Lineberry
North Carolina
 
[Hide Comment] I think the 11d given in the guidebook is definitely legit, if you stay on the face at the last bolt and don't wander out left. That is a looooong move off a very tiny hold! Sep 19, 2016
David Haak
Indianapolis, IN
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Definitely 11d if you stay in the bolt line for the super cool and technical finish. Going out left of the arete looked easier and off route, and with bad fall potential. Oct 11, 2018