Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Werner Braun and Jim Pettigrew - 1977
Page Views: 4,269 total · 38/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Nov 30, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


72 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This climb ascends an off finger crack with multiple cruxes. The first crux is just above the roof. The second is at the top, where the crack thins. Ring locks with a few and jams along the way. A must do for the .10d enthusiast. Rappel this route with one 70m rope to the top of the block.

Location

This is the first climb you come to on the approach trail. Look for a large block with a finger crack going up and left through a small rooflet.

Protection

Gear to 2.5 inches. Extra .5 inch to 1.5 inch pieces.

Photos

tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
sooooo good. Contender for one of the best pitches of crack climbing in the valley. Lots of splitter, off fingers and thin hands stuff, but surprisingly secure (except crux). Crux is at the top when the crack gets thin and requires a big, punchy move to rail up higher.

Spit me off at the top, but even the fall is clean! Shit!! Good stuff!!!

No crowds, in the shade until the afternoon. Next to other killer climbs. Do this! May 30, 2013
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Yup, this is a reeeaallly good pitch. I found the crux to be lower on the route where you've got to work those damn green camalot jams for several moves. My partner did some stemming/liebacking stuff and used the roof on the right and it seemed easier that way, so YMMV. The top is a bit tricky, but you can make big reaches to good fingerlocks and just have to smear your feet for a few moves.

Go get on this one!! Sweet line, sustained difficulty, and always good stances to place gear. Can't ask for much more. May 11, 2014
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
Yep, this a gem. I always wonder about that block in the middle of the upper headwall and so never place gear there but I guess it is fine since everyone pulls and stands on it. Would agree that it is one of the best cracks in the valley. Jun 2, 2015