Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sentinel Creek Area

Boulderfield Gorge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brownoser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hand Me Down, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hari-Kiri T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Into the Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Tut's Tomb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kung Pao Chicken T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mantra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mental Block T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Post Tramatic Climbing Disorder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sceptor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sphinxter, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spiderman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tilted Mitten, Left Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten, Right Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unagi T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiskers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0
Yami Shami S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ying-Yang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Werner Braun and Jim Pettigrew - 1977
Page Views: 3,559 total, 37/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Nov 30, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


58 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This climb ascends an off finger crack with multiple cruxes. The first crux is just above the roof. The second is at the top, where the crack thins. Ring locks with a few and jams along the way. A must do for the .10d enthusiast. Rappel this route with one 70m rope to the top of the block.

Location

This is the first climb you come to on the approach trail. Look for a large block with a finger crack going up and left through a small rooflet.

Protection

Gear to 2.5 inches. Extra .5 inch to 1.5 inch pieces.
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
Yep, this a gem. I always wonder about that block in the middle of the upper headwall and so never place gear there but I guess it is fine since everyone pulls and stands on it. Would agree that it is one of the best cracks in the valley. Jun 2, 2015
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Yup, this is a reeeaallly good pitch. I found the crux to be lower on the route where you've got to work those damn green camalot jams for several moves. My partner did some stemming/liebacking stuff and used the roof on the right and it seemed easier that way, so YMMV. The top is a bit tricky, but you can make big reaches to good fingerlocks and just have to smear your feet for a few moves.

Go get on this one!! Sweet line, sustained difficulty, and always good stances to place gear. Can't ask for much more. May 11, 2014
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
sooooo good. Contender for one of the best pitches of crack climbing in the valley. Lots of splitter, off fingers and thin hands stuff, but surprisingly secure (except crux). Crux is at the top when the crack gets thin and requires a big, punchy move to rail up higher.

Spit me off at the top, but even the fall is clean! Shit!! Good stuff!!!

No crowds, in the shade until the afternoon. Next to other killer climbs. Do this! May 30, 2013