Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Galen Rowell and Gary Colliver (Aug '62)
Page Views: 433 total · 5/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 8, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This somewhat obscure route features one good pitch and one bad pitch.

First is the bad pitch. Climb up the corner that's half rock and half munge to reach some scary thin flakes wedged in a chimney. Squeeze up between the flake and the outside wall to reach some easier terrain. Climb past a tree with a bunch of rap slings on it and build a gear anchor (nuts, small-medium cams) at a stance just above the tree.

The second pitch is pretty much all chimney climbing and is considerably cleaner than the first. The crux is a "roof" where the chimney pinches down to a tight squeeze and it requires some thoughtful moves to wiggle past. There is another constriction above that is similar but easier. Belay at the new bolted anchor at the top of the Mitten.

Rappel from the summit with two ropes. One 70m rope doesn't quite make it but it is possible to downclimb the first few feet of the Right Side Route.

Location

The Tilted Mitten is the exfoliation flake located just below and left of the giant corner system of Mental Block

Protection

Single rack to 6"

Photos

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Mark P Thomas
Draper
Mark P Thomas   Draper
It looks like you can avoid the bad pitch and step over at the tree by taking the 5.9 variation to the Right Side and staying on the flake/ledge rather than liebacking up to P2 of the Right Side. A little dirty, but not too bad and has some interesting OWish moves. Apr 24, 2012