Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Alexey Zelditch, Vinita Bali, July 2015
Page Views: 756 total · 17/month
Shared By: Alexey Zelditch on Jul 20, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The route starts 5 feet to the right of Ying-Yang. A bolt protects the initial face moves as you traverse left to the corner. The crack used to be vegetated and dirty, and is now cleaned up and climbable, but still cary the nut tool in case you need to clean some dirt from the crack.
The route have 3 distinct cruxes - first for face moves after you clip the bolt, second 35 feet up reaching for good finger-lock via thin crack in the corner (10c/d) and last surmounting small bulge (5.10) to reach the final ledge.
The route is climbing better than it looks

Location

Route starts 5 feet to the right of Ying-Yang

Protection

One bolt protects initial face moves traversing to the thin crack.
5 feet above the bolt there small slot- perfect placement for black alien and two more feet above slot for small nut. This placements we found sufficient for not to place second bolt.
Double from black alien to #2 Camalot + micro and medium nuts. Nice to have triple for green, yellow and red aliens size.
You need 80 m rope or two ropes to get down from the top.

Photos

Kish
  5.10c/d
Kish  
  5.10c/d
Fun, varied route! Harder and way more interesting than it looks from the ground. Several spicy 5.10 sections, and the crux sections probably climb at 5.10c or 10d -- depending on the usual --- reach, finger size, etc. Aug 4, 2015
Anthony H
Seattle, WA
 
Anthony H   Seattle, WA
 
Fun route! A bit of everything from face to finger to stemming, even a couple of OW moves. We did it in April when it's still dripping up top, I supposed it made it more "full-valued" haha.

The beta on black alien (or equivalent sizes) is right on - would be a bit spicy without one. There are placements for #3s and I thought they would be nice to have, although not necessary. Apr 20, 2016
jpin
  5.10b
jpin  
  5.10b
Good enough route but probably only 10b May 31, 2016