Type: Trad, 105 ft (32 m)
FA: Brendan O'Rourke, Aug 2023
Page Views: 246 total · 16/month
Shared By: Brendan O'Rourke on Sep 5, 2023
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This route has excellent jamming and a boisterous layback crux in a great position. It "escapes" the crux of Shaggy's Roof by following the right wall and coming up and around into the rightmost crack.  

Start as per Shaggy's Roof: Start at the base of Brownoser and climb the 5th class section up and right to get to a large tree coming straight out of the corner. Keep going up the mossy chimney/gully from here (don't go onto the face with the chossy finger crack) before heading out left using underclings and side pulls (careful of the loose block) to get to the start of the hand crack.

Bolted anchor (shared with Shaggy's Roof) at the top of the crack, located on a ledge around the right of the arete when viewed from the bottom. Rappel the route with a 70m rope. Lowering instead of rappelling increases the risk of getting the rope stuck in the crack.

Location Suggest change

At the left-facing corner to the right of Brownoser. Follows Shaggy's Roof crack before staying against the right-wall to go up and around into the rightmost crack.

Protection Suggest change

Cams (BD) sizes 0.5 - 3 with doubles of 0.75 - 2.
Plenty of extendable draws and one or two 120 cm slings (or double ropes).
Optional extras: No. 4

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