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Zen and the Art of Lieback Maintenance
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in N. Sentinel Creek Area
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Blank Space S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Boulderfield Gorge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brownoser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crouching Climber, Hidden Frog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free Your Mind T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Hand Me Down, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hari-Kiri T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Into the Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Juan-Tawn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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King Tut's Tomb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kintama Buster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kung Pao Chicken T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Manana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mantra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mental Block T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Monkey Work T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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North Face Pohono Pinnacle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pohono Pinnacle- Northwest Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Post Tramatic Climbing Disorder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Reflection Pillar, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sceptor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shaggy's Escape T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shaggy's Roof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sphinxter, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spiderman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tilted Mitten, Left Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tilted Mitten, Right Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unagi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Whiskers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Yama Shama S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Yin-Yang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Zen and the Art of Lieback Maintenance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 37.72396, -119.60637 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 66 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Cathie Yun on May 27, 2025 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
"Is it hard? Not if you have the right attitudes. It's having the right attitudes that's hard.” - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance
Acquire the right attitudes, and either lieback (if you have bad crack technique but good endurance) or jam (if you have good crack technique and/or small hands) your way up this beautiful corner crack. It starts at .3 and widens gradually to .75, with a delicate traverse under the roof to the chains. Enjoy the journey!
You can toprope this route and the one to the right (Crouching Climber, Hidden Frog) with a 60m from the same anchors.
Matt Epperson and Ben Fisch cleaned the route (trundled some loose flakes) and bolted the anchors in Fall 2024. Matt and I went back in Spring 2025 to clean it up some more, and get photos.
There's a fixed piton to the left of the anchors, so this route has been climbed before - DM me if you have more information about the FA or the original name of the route.
Location
Follow the main Sentinel Creek trail left, past Yin-Yang and Hara-Kiri. Follow the ramp to Mental Block, but walk past it. Keep going for ~5 minutes, looking for a thin crack in a right-facing corner that starts on a pedestal and ends under a roof (this is Zen). There is a bolted anchor under the roof, on the right face.
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