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Routes in Sentinel Creek Area

Boulderfield Gorge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brownoser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hand Me Down, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hari-Kiri T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Into the Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Tut's Tomb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kung Pao Chicken T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mantra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mental Block T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Post Tramatic Climbing Disorder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sceptor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sphinxter, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spiderman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tilted Mitten, Left Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten, Right Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unagi T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiskers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0
Yami Shami S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ying-Yang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Barry Bates and Loyd Price, 1971
Page Views: 3,158 total, 26/month
Shared By: Sirius on Dec 18, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A classic and isolated line. Scum your way up the first 15 ft of vegetation and choss to a stance beneath the small but prominent roof split by a laser-cut crack. From here on out, the rock is excellent quality. Pull up to the roof on jugs and muscle your way over the lip on off-finger jams.

This rattly-finger section (.10d) lasts maybe 20 ft before you sink a thank god handjam. From here, super fun jamming (mostly in the golden 2" range - reminded this climber of a light version of Reed's Direct p2) leads a long, enjoyable ways to the top. Scramble your way up and left to the rap station (outstanding spot) at a tree.

Location

From the base of MaƱana (ref. Alexey's approach description for the area), walk left along the base of the wall a good ways (+/- 15 minutes). You will pass the obvious lines of Ying-Yang, Mental Block, and the Tilted Mitten. From the Tilted Mitten proceed another 1,000 ft, per Reid. To get to the start of Vanishing Point, you will circle under and around a small buttress to ascend a steep and grassy embankment with a clear and well worn climber's trail. Vanishing Point is the attractive off-fingers splitter in the center of the face (next to a small tree) that splits a roof 25 feet up. 15 feet of vegetated choss lead to this roof. Note that there is another striking finger-sized splitter a ways to the left of Vanishing Point, near an arete - a much harder and headier affair, by the look of it. Make sure you pick the right line!

Protection

To 2.5", reco extra hand sizes. As of summer '07 there was a fixed Alien at the crux lip of the roof.

Photos

Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
Not quite as classic as I expected. Quite damp and mossy in the alcove below the crux roof (in February). The hands above are quite grainy. As I figured out a 70 m rope doesn't quite make it down, but for now someone fixed a rope there and forgot to take it down. No fixed gear at the roof, but you can place 3-4 pieces from the jugs if needed. Feb 18, 2015
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
You need two ropes to get down from the top [ top ancor is slings around the tree].
Or 80m rope, which barely reach the bottom. Sep 12, 2011
If you want to get there directly from the Sentinel Creek parking area, just access the main footpath. Walk past the turn off for manana and keep going east until you reach the Presidential boulder. From the back side of the Presidential boulder walk diagonally up and to the left (east). Continue in this direction until you reach the base. Access the climb from the left (east) side. I've done this many times as Vanishing point is also an excellent place to view horsetail falls when it glows in Februrary. The walk is very easy and casual. Barry Bates is the man! Feb 1, 2010
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10d
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10d
I did this a couple of years ago. The slings at the belay were kinda gnarly... Oct 14, 2009
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
We've done a more direct way by scrambling up a boulder field just to the left (east)of the Vanishing Point area, then cutting right (west) through the forest to come out at the steep, grassy hillside with trail. Can't remember exactly where we parked for this, but maybe a mile or so before Sentinel. There was no formal trail - just bushwhacking. Dec 20, 2007
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
I am curious about getting to the base of this climb. Is more direct trail exist from the road except that described above via Maniana? Dec 19, 2007