Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: FFA: Dale Bard, Jim Bridwell - 5/1973
Page Views: 7,187 total · 47/month
Shared By: Alexey Zelditch on Nov 20, 2007
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is classic route that has not seen much traffic. The entire route is following right facing corner from pitch 2 to the end. Considered as a good step forward on the road to Twilight Zone
supertopo.com/climbing/thre…
After climbing this route twice I still think this is true 10c, and despite that all individual moves there is easier that start of Generator Crack - you do crux section in the middle of pitch 3 with huge rack and you already not fresh. No way it is 5.9 - it is 5.10
Using one 70m rope is a best for climb and rappel this route. With 60m rope you can have down-climb several feet while rappelling p3

P1. Dirty and not well defined pitch. Bad pro. Start from the tree. First move is very insecure. My partner started on my shoulders to reach a jug. Do not stop at the tree with the rappel slings, - but continue to the right facing corner - the base of pitch 2. Gear belay. 100' , 5.7-5.8.

P2. This is stellar off fingers- thin hands pitch. 100', 10c, Two bolts belay.
double Red aliens, Camalots 2 #0,75 2#1, 2#2 2#3, nuts. There is a new bolt 30 feet up on this pitch.

P3. The crux pitch. It has no well defined cruxes, but I felt two harder sections at about one third and two third of the of this pitch. Most of the pitch is easier to stay right side in, except of last 20 feet , where is thin crack appears on the right side which I used for small gear. You can walk #5C4 Camalot all the way except of first 25 feet.
Pro in order of appearance : #3 Cam, #4 Friend, #4 Friend, #4C4 Cam, #5 Friend , #2 BigBro, #5C4 Cam, #5Cam (old), #3 BigBro, Yellow alien, Green Alien, Blue Alien, Green Alien, Red Alien, #5C4 Cam. 110 feet. 10C. Two bolts belay

P4. OW 10c section there is short. But 5.8 move - entering in chimney with head jam - is amazing and remarkable. Its remind the entering in SS Narrows, but with different body positioning. 70 feet, 10c. Gear belay.

P5. Can be linked with p4, unless you got a tremendous rope drug. Probably possible with double rope system. 30 feet , 5.8-5.9. Two bolts

Location

As climber trail reach Maniana- turn left, walk about 7-10 min until you see huge right facing corner of Mental Block

Protection

Nuts for p1&2 and Double set of cams from green Alien to #5C4 Camelot. Big Bro#2, #3. I took Camelot #6C4 , but did not use it. Old #5 is better fit the wide section which has mainly 5" WIDTH.

Photos