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Routes in N. Sentinel Creek Area
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Blank Space S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Boulderfield Gorge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brownoser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hand Me Down, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hari-Kiri T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Into the Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Juan-Tawn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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King Tut's Tomb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kung Pao Chicken T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Manana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mantra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mental Block T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Monkey Work T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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North Face Pohono Pinnacle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pohono Pinnacle- Northwest Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Post Tramatic Climbing Disorder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Reflection Pillar, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 |
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Sceptor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shaggy's Escape T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shaggy's Roof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sphinxter, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spiderman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tilted Mitten, Left Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tilted Mitten, Right Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unagi T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Whiskers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Yama Shama S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Yin-Yang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | FFA: Dale Bard, Jim Bridwell - 5/1973 |
| Page Views: | 9,298 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Alexey Zelditch on Nov 20, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is classic route that has not seen much traffic. The entire route is following right facing corner from pitch 2 to the end. Considered as a good step forward on the road to Twilight Zone
supertopo.com/climbing/thre…
After climbing this route twice I still think this is true 10c, and despite that all individual moves there is easier that start of Generator Crack - you do crux section in the middle of pitch 3 with huge rack and you already not fresh. No way it is 5.9 - it is 5.10
Using one 70m rope is a best for climb and rappel this route. With 60m rope you can have down-climb several feet while rappelling p3
P1. Dirty and not well defined pitch. Bad pro. Start from the tree. First move is very insecure. My partner started on my shoulders to reach a jug. Do not stop at the tree with the rappel slings, - but continue to the right facing corner - the base of pitch 2. Gear belay. 100' , 5.7-5.8.
P2. This is stellar off fingers- thin hands pitch. 100', 10c, Two bolts belay.
double Red aliens, Camalots 2 #0,75 2#1, 2#2 2#3, nuts. There is a new bolt 30 feet up on this pitch.
P3. The crux pitch. It has no well defined cruxes, but I felt two harder sections at about one third and two third of the of this pitch. Most of the pitch is easier to stay right side in, except of last 20 feet , where is thin crack appears on the right side which I used for small gear. You can walk #5C4 Camalot all the way except of first 25 feet.
Pro in order of appearance : #3 Cam, #4 Friend, #4 Friend, #4C4 Cam, #5 Friend , #2 BigBro, #5C4 Cam, #5Cam (old), #3 BigBro, Yellow alien, Green Alien, Blue Alien, Green Alien, Red Alien, #5C4 Cam. 110 feet. 10C. Two bolts belay
P4. OW 10c section there is short. But 5.8 move - entering in chimney with head jam - is amazing and remarkable. Its remind the entering in SS Narrows, but with different body positioning. 70 feet, 10c. Gear belay.
P5. Can be linked with p4, unless you got a tremendous rope drug. Probably possible with double rope system. 30 feet , 5.8-5.9. Two bolts
supertopo.com/climbing/thre…
After climbing this route twice I still think this is true 10c, and despite that all individual moves there is easier that start of Generator Crack - you do crux section in the middle of pitch 3 with huge rack and you already not fresh. No way it is 5.9 - it is 5.10
Using one 70m rope is a best for climb and rappel this route. With 60m rope you can have down-climb several feet while rappelling p3
P1. Dirty and not well defined pitch. Bad pro. Start from the tree. First move is very insecure. My partner started on my shoulders to reach a jug. Do not stop at the tree with the rappel slings, - but continue to the right facing corner - the base of pitch 2. Gear belay. 100' , 5.7-5.8.
P2. This is stellar off fingers- thin hands pitch. 100', 10c, Two bolts belay.
double Red aliens, Camalots 2 #0,75 2#1, 2#2 2#3, nuts. There is a new bolt 30 feet up on this pitch.
P3. The crux pitch. It has no well defined cruxes, but I felt two harder sections at about one third and two third of the of this pitch. Most of the pitch is easier to stay right side in, except of last 20 feet , where is thin crack appears on the right side which I used for small gear. You can walk #5C4 Camalot all the way except of first 25 feet.
Pro in order of appearance : #3 Cam, #4 Friend, #4 Friend, #4C4 Cam, #5 Friend , #2 BigBro, #5C4 Cam, #5Cam (old), #3 BigBro, Yellow alien, Green Alien, Blue Alien, Green Alien, Red Alien, #5C4 Cam. 110 feet. 10C. Two bolts belay
P4. OW 10c section there is short. But 5.8 move - entering in chimney with head jam - is amazing and remarkable. Its remind the entering in SS Narrows, but with different body positioning. 70 feet, 10c. Gear belay.
P5. Can be linked with p4, unless you got a tremendous rope drug. Probably possible with double rope system. 30 feet , 5.8-5.9. Two bolts
13 Comments