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Routes in Sentinel Creek Area

Boulderfield Gorge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brownoser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hand Me Down, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hari-Kiri T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Into the Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Tut's Tomb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kung Pao Chicken T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mantra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mental Block T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Post Tramatic Climbing Disorder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sceptor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sphinxter, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spiderman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tilted Mitten, Left Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten, Right Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unagi T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiskers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0
Yami Shami S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ying-Yang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tom Frost, Yvon Chouinard, and Ken Weeks (1959)
Page Views: 1,702 total, 23/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Oct 11, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Pharaoh's Beard is a small exfoliation flake propped up against the Sentinel Creek Wall. It is located a couple hundred yards uphill and to the right of Manana. The Regular Route is a historic climb that doesn't get done much these days. Like most climbs at Sentinel Creek it's in the shade until the afternoon, and the second half of the route is always in the shade.

The route begins on the right side of the formation. Jam your way up easy flakes to reach a tree. Monkey your way through the tree and climb a fun clean offwidth to a ledge with an old piton anchor.

The next pitch climbs the right side of a flake and then you step left into a corner. Move to the left side of Pharaoh's Beard and climb some chossy flakes to a tree. You can belay here if you want or link this with the 3rd pitch if the rope drag's not too bad.

Claw your way through the tree (this one's much more difficult than the first) and enter a chimney. Pass a chockstone and then tunnel up behind the last portion of the formation to the summit.

Rappel the route with one 70m rope. The summit anchors are new bolts. The rap station at the top of pitch 1 belongs in a museum and consists of a 1/4" bolt, 2 pitons (all over 50 years old!) and a fixed nut that I added in 2011.

Location

From Manana, skirt the base to the right on a faint trail. Then head uphill in a gully and keep trending up and right until you come to a boulder filled clearing. At this point you will see Pharaoh's Beard and an easy scramble will lead to the base.

Protection

Single set of cams to 5".

Photos

Andy W
Fort Collins, CO
Andy W   Fort Collins, CO
Shiny new rap anchors at P1 belay. Great climb that just needs more traffic to clean it up and break in the approach trail. Trees on P1 are no issue, but someone should bring some tree snips for the trees up high. Fun top out, albeit awkward belay, with great views of El Cap across the way. Sep 2, 2017
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
You will be happier with a #5 and a #6 for P1... Oct 12, 2015
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.8
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.8
Thanks for adding the nut! That anchor is a little sketchy. 5.8 OW was pretty fun & the summit is really cool.

Also, this climb gets a lot of shade so it is good on a hot day. Last weekend there is a nice snowmelt waterfall next to the Mitten, which was very nice to splash in once the sun started to shine on us. Apr 24, 2012