Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sentinel Creek Area

Boulderfield Gorge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brownoser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hand Me Down, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hari-Kiri T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Into the Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Tut's Tomb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kung Pao Chicken T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mantra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mental Block T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Post Tramatic Climbing Disorder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sceptor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sphinxter, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spiderman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tilted Mitten, Left Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten, Right Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unagi T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiskers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0
Yami Shami S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ying-Yang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Bill Price and Craig Hanna (1978)
Page Views: 659 total, 13/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Oct 10, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The nice crack system just to the left of Vanishing Point. Follow the same approach to reach the base.

The climb shares the same first 15ft of scrambling as Vanishing Point. Below the roof, walk to the left end of the ledge and make a dicey mantel onto a shelf which is protected by an old pin. Walk further left past a bush to reach a splitter finger crack. Jam on up to the next overlap, then undercling out right. Pull through a cruxy sequence on face holds and sidepulls to gain the next crack system above, then climb easier terrain to the top.

The rap anchor is off a tree, and is shared with Vanishing Point.

Protection

This is a difficult lead that requires twin ropes and several long runners to reduce rope drag. Bring a good selection of small wires and micro cams, some extra .5"-.75" cams, and a couple bigger cams (3-4.5") for the undercling traverse.

It can also be toproped with two ropes, after leading Vanishing Point.

Photos

Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
 
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
 
Can be top-roped from Vanishing Point.

Double ropes needed to lead this due to the traversing nature of the route.

The bolt in the Ried guide near the 11c face crux is missing. This would make the fall on lead quite hairy as the moves are unprotectable.

If that bolt was there this would be a super classic valley hard moderate test piece.

More detailed beta to help get people on this thing:
---------------------------------------------------------
Route starts in same place as Vanishing point. 5.8-5.9

Walk left past under roof 1 (Vanishing Point buisness start), then protect and mantle on ledge. 10b/c

No hands traverse left across ledge, past tree to amazing finger crack 9+/10- R

Fire up the the finger crack that is on par with Mr. Natural. 10d

Shake and traverse under the monster roof 10c

Breath, then fire the ~6 moves of desperate face with no bolt, use redundant pieces on lead before going pulling onto the face. 11c R

Karate chop your way up 30-40' of IC-esque 5.9/10a splitter hands and clip that tat and rings on the old tree Aug 3, 2015