Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dan Hare and Mike O'Donnell (1983)
Page Views: 234 total · 5/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 12, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Located on a west-facing buttress just uphill from King Tut's Tomb. See the following photo:

Kung Pao Chicken and Into the Fire Update May 2015: The old natural anchor at the top of the pillar has been replaced with 2-bolts w/chains. The anchor at the top of the second pitch of Into the Fire is still 1/4" bolts with tat.

Pitch 1 climbs the left side of the pillar at 5.9. Mostly the crack is hands to offwidth size. Belay off a bolted anchor at a sandy ledge.

Pitch 2 starts by climbing up to a flake and past some questionable rock in order to traverse left along the roof. The crux is the last bit of strenuous underclinging with poor feet. After turning the lip into the left-facing corner, make certain the rope is running on the outside of the roof. If the rope starts going into the crack it will get jammed and possibly drag your gear up into the crack with it. Lieback up the corner until it turns into a slab, then make another 5.9 move standing up onto the arete. Jam the spectacular thin-hand crack until you pass through a bit of squeeze chimney and climb over a detached block, then traverse right 20ft across the face to a bolted anchor.

Rap the route with a 70m rope. A 60m could possibly make it but I'm not sure, and it would be super close. The upper bolted anchor is 1/4"ers with tat and badly needs to be replaced. The first anchor atop the pillar is fat new bolts w/ chains.

Protection

Double rack from .25" to 4"

Photos

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There are loose rocks on the sandy belay ledge at the top of pitch one. On the ground, it is best to belay out on the open slope rather than at the base of the corner. May 22, 2016