Type: Trad, 135 ft (41 m)
FA: Don Reid and Alan Roberts (1987)
Page Views: 863 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 12, 2015
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a really nice crack which is on the west facing buttress a little further uphill from "Into The Fire" and "Kung Pao Chicken". It would be a 3-star climb if it was cleaner. Scramble onto some small ledges from the right and build a belay anchor at the bottom of the crack (bring some extra .75" cams for the belay). Climb straight up the crack, with a crux in the upper section. Near the end of the crack, traverse left to a bolted anchor on a small ledge.

I think an 80m rope will just barely make it back down. We had a 70m but I was able to make it to a ledge system where I could scramble off to climber's right on some 4th class terrain.

Also bring a bolt kit if you have one. The anchor is a couple 1/4" bolts with old tat.

Protection Suggest change

Pro from micro to 3" with doubles from .25" - 1.75". And I would recommend bringing all the .75" cams (purple C4s and orange TCUs) that you have, since it's nice to put a couple in the anchor for your belayer at the bottom, and that's also a very useful size to have on the climb. And some small offset cams would probably be useful in the section leading up to the crux.

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