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Routes in Sentinel Creek Area

Boulderfield Gorge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brownoser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hand Me Down, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hari-Kiri T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Into the Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Tut's Tomb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kung Pao Chicken T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mantra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mental Block T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Post Tramatic Climbing Disorder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sceptor, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sphinxter, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spiderman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tilted Mitten, Left Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten, Right Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unagi T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiskers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0
Yami Shami S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ying-Yang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Don Reid and Alan Roberts (1987)
Page Views: 148 total, 5/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 12, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a really nice crack which is on the west facing buttress a little further uphill from "Into The Fire" and "Kung Pao Chicken". It would be a 3-star climb if it was cleaner. Scramble onto some small ledges from the right and build a belay anchor at the bottom of the crack (bring some extra .75" cams for the belay). Climb straight up the crack, with a crux in the upper section. Near the end of the crack, traverse left to a bolted anchor on a small ledge.

I think an 80m rope will just barely make it back down. We had a 70m but I was able to make it to a ledge system where I could scramble off to climber's right on some 4th class terrain.

Also bring a bolt kit if you have one. The anchor is a couple 1/4" bolts with old tat.

Protection

Pro from micro to 3" with doubles from .25" - 1.75". And I would recommend bringing all the .75" cams (purple C4s and orange TCUs) that you have, since it's nice to put a couple in the anchor for your belayer at the bottom, and that's also a very useful size to have on the climb. And some small offset cams would probably be useful in the section leading up to the crux.

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