Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,055 total · 40/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Feb 5, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Fall Line is amazing and one of the region's best pure sustained thin cracks. No move is probably any harder than honest .11+, and few are much easier. With so many thin locks and sharp stone, finger skin is a limiting factor. Some locks opened up and many became less sharp over 4-5 days of climbing on this.

Comparing ratings between areas and climbing styles doesn't seem as helpful as trying to be internally consistent at a given crag. This route is a significantly harder send than Winter Sustenance, Reservation Blues, or May Fly. But it is an endurance climb without anything harder than ~V4 and is finger size dependent.
take any suggested grade with a grain of salt and just enjoy the climb if it's 5.11 or 5.13.

Location

The tips and fingers crack that is the next route left of JR Token - finish up the JR Extention to the anchors on the top of the mesa. You want a 70m to TR this (a 60 might work with some shenanigans and attentive belaying.)

Protection

Lots of small cams and mid-sized wires. Nothing bigger than a yellow alien unless it's for the 5.10 climbing near the top.

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
My .02: This line is killer. A stout line at a stout crag. Imagine moving into the pod on Alchemy for 60' interrupted by two rests and you start to get the idea. Feels harder than Full Clip, the only other route like it at TC. Full Clip has easier moves overall but less rest. Also, harder to me than Mayfly. Seems like 13- would be fair. Lastly, this thing takes medium stoppers well. Worth sussing for the redpoint. Feb 16, 2013