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Routes in The Main Wall

Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
California Weakender T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Chicken T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gas Chamber T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Landing a Monster T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Squiggles T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Muffin Top T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Out of the Question T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Space Mission T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
U3 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
U4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,745 total, 47/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Feb 5, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land Details

Description

Fall Line is amazing and one of the region's best pure sustained thin cracks. No move is probably any harder than honest .11+, and few are much easier. With so many thin locks and sharp stone, finger skin is a limiting factor. Some locks opened up and many became less sharp over 4-5 days of climbing on this.

Comparing ratings between areas and climbing styles doesn't seem as helpful as trying to be internally consistent at a given crag. This route is a significantly harder send than Winter Sustenance, Reservation Blues, or May Fly. But it is an endurance climb without anything harder than ~V4 and is finger size dependent.
take any suggested grade with a grain of salt and just enjoy the climb if it's 5.11 or 5.13.

Location

The tips and fingers crack that is the next route left of JR Token - finish up the JR Extention to the anchors on the top of the mesa. You want a 70m to TR this (a 60 might work with some shenanigans and attentive belaying.)

Protection

Lots of small cams and mid-sized wires. Nothing bigger than a yellow alien unless it's for the 5.10 climbing near the top.

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
My .02: This line is killer. A stout line at a stout crag. Imagine moving into the pod on Alchemy for 60' interrupted by two rests and you start to get the idea. Feels harder than Full Clip, the only other route like it at TC. Full Clip has easier moves overall but less rest. Also, harder to me than Mayfly. Seems like 13- would be fair. Lastly, this thing takes medium stoppers well. Worth sussing for the redpoint. Feb 16, 2013