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Routes in 17 - This and That Cliff

Cramming T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Said and Done T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scram S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This and That T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Walk, Don't Run (aka The Bouldering Arch) V0 4
Whim T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 85 ft
FA: FA: Bachar & Kauk, '75 w/ A.0 start, FFA Jonny Woodward and Rob Ward, October 1982
Page Views: 4,896 total, 38/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Brutal face moves start past a bolt are free @ 5.12a (ha) but it is easier to use an aider to cheat to get to the crack. Really sound finger crack (albeit a little flaky circa 1994) lead up to anchors.

1980's photos of Peter Croft soloing the route float around climbing rags of the era. One of the best finger cracks in the Valley off the ground (a must do- please someone post a photo!), but lacks only a good start (being the crack does not touch down).

Location

up a semi steep hill through trees to the base of the wall.

Protection

bolt, small stoppers and tcu's
Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
  5.11d A0
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
  5.11d A0
Classic! My new favorite finger crack in the Valley, perhaps better than Butterballs- although it's not as steep, its longer, the locks aren't as good, and it's much more sustained. Solid 11d for sure. Good footwork definitely helps. For gear, you can sew it up nicely with triples in .3 .4 and .5, and then some small x4's and c3's for the start. It took us 15 minutes to get to the base after parking at cascade falls and scampering up through the trees, but it was much easier to get back down once we found the trail. Go for it! Apr 3, 2016
The Yosemite guide has always had incorrect FFA info. For the record.....
FFA. Jonny Woodward, Brian Courtney. October 1982.
The free start is a finger traverse from the right.
jw Dec 27, 2015
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
Tips Thread Mar 29, 2014
FA: Charlie Porter, by 1975
FFA(W/A0 start): John Bachar, Ron Kauk, 1975
FFA: Jonny Woodward, Ron Kauk, 1985 Jan 7, 2012