Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in This and That Cliff

Cramming T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Said and Done T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scram S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This and That T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Walk, Don't Run (aka The Bouldering Arch) V0 4
Whim T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Steve Wunsch, Matt Donahoe, George Meyers, Jim Donini & Rab Carrington 1972
Page Views: 2,579 total · 19/month
Shared By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

If the angle was any wider, this would be a corner with thin hand crack; if it was any more acute, it would be a flaring chimney with thin hands in the back. As it is, it just hard to classify. The crux is right off the ground, awkward 1 1/4 inch jams. It eases off after 25 feet.

Location

The far right side of This and That Cliff. The climb start from a flat wide ledge some 20'' off the ground.

Protection

Cams up to 2. Doubles .5 and .75.

Photos

Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
Gear recomendation: Red alien, 1.25 friend, 2#.75 cam 2-3#1cam 2#2Cam Dec 17, 2007
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The first few feet seemed impossible, even after I aided through it and set up a TR. I'd rank this among the hardest 5.10's I've encountered in the Valley. Feb 1, 2011
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
  5.10d
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
  5.10d
Definately a stout valley testpiece. Some tubing technique is necessary to keep this thing in the sub .11 category. Impeccible rock, great protection, and interesting moves make this a classic. Dec 24, 2011
Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
Lou Hibbard   Eagan, MN
Experiment with which side is "in". I found one side "in" easier than the other way for most of the climb - almost a no hands rest in places. May not want same side "in" the whole climb. Dec 4, 2012
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
 
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
 
Yowee! Super stout and fun. Aug 27, 2013
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
We instantly thought of P2 of Thin Ice when we saw this. It's pretty dang similar but a bit easier I thought. If you want more specific in beta, try straight in at first, then left side and a corner knee bar with your right leg (opposite the photo). Worked good for me. Awesome pitch, the rock is just remarkable Mar 29, 2014
This stout route could easily have an 11b rating, but is an excellent sandbag at 10d Apr 13, 2014
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
I jammed it more or less straight in except for the first few feet and definitely thought that the name of the climb is very fitting. Surprisingly not awkward at all. It only briefly opens up to a tight #2 camalot size, but about half of the pitch is #1 camalot size and the bottom is even thinner. Definitely tough for the grade, but hard to justify an upgrade since there are lots of other 10d cracks in the valley that feel like 5.11 as well. The approach SUCKS. Nov 17, 2014
Mei
Mei  
It probably depends on the season, but at the time of this post, when you traverse the ledge to reach the climb, you end up brushing by/hugging a couple of bushes on the ledge. I got ants all over me, and they do bite. Yuck! Thankfully, once you are done climbing, you can rappel all the way to the ground with a 60m rope (watch the ends). Small hands have advantage on this climb. Apr 19, 2016
Buddin  
Crux is short but really fun climb. It's not as awkward as everyone makes it out to be. Straight-in fingers and thin hands with glory face feet right where you want them. Soft for down canyon 10d. Mar 24, 2017

More About Cramming

Printer-Friendly