Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: FA (as "Non-Dairy Creamer" III 5.8 A3): Chris Ballinger, Jim Lynch, & Frank Sanders - 10/12/1977FFA: Skinner, Wald, Cowan, & Piana - 7/19/1984
Page Views: 4,360 total · 22/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Sep 1, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This may very well be one of the best hard finger cracks in North America. Rated anywhere between 11c to 12a in the various guidebooks I've seen, I'll post it as 11+. Even then, it feels like somewhat of a testpiece at hard-5.11.

Begin just to the left of the starts to Jerry's Kids and Avalon (just left of the pentagonal roof at mid-height in the picture below) . Scramble up to the finger crack which becomes increasingly difficult with height. A long rope stretcher pitch with the last 15 foot crux section consisting of desperate tips jamming and/or offset liebacking.

Protection

Lots and lots of small to medium stoppers and small cams

Photos

jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
I agree with Joe, this is one of the best fingercracks anywhere. Long and immaculate with the crux coming in the last 20 feet. Aug 29, 2006
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11+
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11+
One of the best pitches on the Tower. Incredible the entire 160 feet. The last 20 feet are desperate! May 23, 2009
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
 
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
 
Anchor was replaced by Taylor Lais and Cali Terveen on 10/22/16.

Great route and a good one to go for! Don't be scared of the grade. Most of the route is 5.10 climbing and it protects great. Get on it! Sep 16, 2016