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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: D Lovejoy, J Sisson, 1971
Page Views: 2,919 total, 23/month
Shared By: Tavis Ricksecker on Jun 14, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

A great way to spice things up! Depending on the variations you do, this route could be as easy as 5.7, but I will describe the most challenging way to go about it.

P1: Start just left of the first pitch of Reunion at an obvious wide hand/fist crack. Climb this (5.8) to a ledge with a tree.

P2: Climb up the dogleg crack in the face above the ledge (5.7) Above the dogleg, the crack makes a "Y". Continue straight up the beautiful fingercrack on the right to a belay on the ramp above (5.9)

For the next pitch, either climb the third pitch of Classic (5.7), or the second pitch of Karl's Corner (5.8) to the top of the Flying Buttress.

Rappel Coke Bottle, or continue up High Exposure (5.6+) or Beaver Cleaver (5.8+) to the top.

For an easier first pitch, do the first pitch of Reunion to the ledge with the tree instead.

For an easier second pitch, climb out left above the wide dogleg instead of straight up the thin fingers.

Location

Located on the left side of the flying buttress, around the corner to the right from the start of Classic and just left of the start of Reunion.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches

Photos

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.8
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.8
Has anyone linked pitch 1 and 2?

It's been awhile and can't remember the pitch lengths' well. Oct 26, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
hey jon- it's a crack with two obtuse angles spaced near 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up the pitch respectively; it resembles the shape of a dog's hind leg. Jul 24, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
what's a dogleg crack? Jul 23, 2010
I would highly recommend gear to 4 inches unless you are very comfortable in the fist crack option of pitch 1. I feel that the start of this is the crux of the variation (5.9). Oct 21, 2009
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.7
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.7
2nd pitch is great! The "5.9" fingers at the top is a bit soft for GM, but a good way to break into the grade. Oct 17, 2009