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Crack Lover's Variation
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.2 from 61
votes
Routes in Middle Section
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A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Blowin in the Wind S,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Breakfast Before Dessert TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A |
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C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coatimundi / Candyland Linkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good Action S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Good, the Bad & the Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hump Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Karl's Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oogie Boogie Boo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 |
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Psycho Killer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sorcerer T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stoned Jester, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thin Ice (variation) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Tom Thumb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 34.62908, -112.56665 |
| FA: | D Lovejoy, J Sisson, 1971 |
| Page Views: | 4,949 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Tavis Ricksecker on Jun 14, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th
Details
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
Description
A great way to spice things up! Depending on the variations you do, this route could be as easy as 5.7, but I will describe the most challenging way to go about it.
P1: Start just left of the first pitch of Reunion at an obvious wide hand/fist crack. Climb this (5.8) to a ledge with a tree.
P2: Climb up the dogleg crack in the face above the ledge (5.7) Above the dogleg, the crack makes a "Y". Continue straight up the beautiful fingercrack on the right to a belay on the ramp above (5.9)
For the next pitch, either climb the third pitch of Classic (5.7), or the second pitch of Karl's Corner (5.8) to the top of the Flying Buttress.
Rappel Coke Bottle, or continue up High Exposure (5.6+) or Beaver Cleaver (5.8+) to the top.
For an easier first pitch, do the first pitch of Reunion to the ledge with the tree instead.
For an easier second pitch, climb out left above the wide dogleg instead of straight up the thin fingers.
6 Comments