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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Larry Treiber, 1975
Page Views: 697 total, 13/month
Shared By: Chas Waterman on May 13, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description:

Starts off the froggy bottom ledge. IMO this is best done by climbing some other route, then doing two rappels from the top via the standard coke bottle rap gets you to a giant tree covered ledge.

Climb up the chimney for about twenty feet then bust right onto the obvious right leaning seam.

Gear

Standard gm rack

Photos

FWIW - this was originally done as two pitches by Treiber. (I think it's longer than 80')
His first pitch ended at a semi-hanging belay in the stacks just left of the climber. I led it as one pitch in the late '70's/early '80s with Randy Mettler and we pulled out a #2 hex from the original belay.
I suspect that was a 2nd ascent because the nut came right out when I climbed by it.
I traded it back to Treiber in exchange for the story of the first ascent:
He broke the pitch there because he wasn't sure his 50m would reach and more importantly, he was worried about his second getting up the climb. I don't recall who was the second.
The nut was left at the belay because it was sundowning and the second was (as Treiber put it) "totaly freaked hanging at that belay and he just unclipped and left the gear that didn't come right out."
I suspect the belayer was also a bit nervous about having Treiber wing onto him from the top moves. Larry was not a small guy and as I recall, it's a slightly run out and sort of balancey at the top?

RIP Larry Treiber...

Everyone who climbs much at the mountain should do this route and Slide Action Traction to have an idea of Larry's FA face climbing skills.

BTW - I think the best approach to this climb is to climb the Flying Buttress and then do the Coke Bottle rap to the start of the climb. Oct 30, 2013