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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
GBU Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA: David Lovejoy, Dwight Bradley (1970) FFA: Karl Karlstrom, Rusty Baillie, David Lovejoy (1972)
Page Views: 15,836 total · 118/month
Shared By: Larry Coats on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Candyland is the right-hand crack system that climbs to the Great Roof in the middle section of Granite Mountain, and exits the roof to the right.

Pitch 1: Climb up to the right end of a large flake and traverse it back left to the base of the main crack. Follow this crack through increasingly difficult jamming and stemming to the crux flakes near the bolt (5.10), through the overhang and to the belay on three modern bolts (thanks to efforts by Rusty Baillie).

Pitch 2: Clip a draw to the highest bolt and ooze into the severely flaring and insecure chimney above. Fortunately a couple modern microcams (.4's,.5's) fit into pockets in the degraded crack in the back, making the awkward moves above much less scary (back in the day bad #1 stoppers were it!). This short pitch ends at a solid two-bolt belay.

Pitch 3: Climb the obvious corner crack above- widening from thin hands to larger than fists. Belay on the amazing ledge below the Great Roof.

Pitch 4: Stem up the main corner, past a bald spot, to reach the roof, stuff in some small cams, and hand traverse rightwards as fast as your arm strength allows. Continue following the horizontal crack system around the corner to another amazing belay ledge on the main face. Arrange a belay with gear

Pitch 5: Head straight up the beautiful thin fingers to ringlocks crack before turning the roof-flake on the left. Be sure to runner the hand-sized piece under the roof to avoid rope drag on the long pitch above. Follow easier ground up the main crack system, passing a couple of ledgey areas, before gaining the final blank corner and the summit boulder problem. The route ends to the right of a pointed boulder that is the highest point on the entire crag.

Protection

A typical Granite Mountain rack with wires and cams to #4 Camalot.
Tim Heid
AZ
 
Tim Heid   AZ
 
P1: 5.10
P2: 5.9
P3: 5.9
P4: 5.7
P5: 5.9

You can always do the first few pitches of Coatimudni Whiteout until you get under the Great Roof and then go right instead of left, finishing up on Candyland. This keeps the rating around 5.9ish. Sep 15, 2011
jeffrey c gibson
pheonix az
jeffrey c gibson   pheonix az
I didn't think the approach was that bad.... Feb 1, 2012
Coming from out of town (Tucson), any suggestions for this route? Aug 30, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Granite Mountain is closed because it was consumed by the Doce Fire this summer. The earliest it would possibly reopen would be the end of September. Aug 31, 2013
Nick Dolhyj 1
Flagstaff, AZ
Nick Dolhyj 1   Flagstaff, AZ
made it to the end of pitch 3 before a nasty monsoon took us by surprise, definitely going to come back and finish out the route! also got a silver bd nut stuck on pitch 2, enjoy clipping that to protect the weird crux move Sep 9, 2014
Miguel D
SLC
Miguel D   SLC
For my first time traversing the roof I felt a bit intimidated, but it I felt it was quite easy, and with good protection. There are small ledges for your feet almost the entire way to the belay ledge, felt maybe like 5.7 moves, if that Jan 30, 2016
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Wow, what a climb! Burly, burly! Had a #5 and it's useful on p. 1 and 3, though not absolutely necessary and I may not take next time now that I know my arm bars work. P3 sure is stellar, but on a warm, humid (for here) summer day, ooof! Jul 25, 2016
Greg Opland    
Ha ha ha ha... FULL value on the BURL scale route for sure, but what a bunch of fantastic pitches!!! Did you have the falcons yelling at you? Jul 26, 2016
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Hey Greg, will be great to coordinate with you next time you think you'll get up. I've been gone since I posted, but now hopefully most Fall-winter weekends. Falcons didn't scream at me much. I'm not trying to make notes on their behavior and where they are every time I'm there to give to USFS. Noel seems genuinely interested in getting the data that might help support a partial closure, or even an amended one. Would be great! Aug 20, 2016
Greg Opland    
Sent you a message. Aug 21, 2016
TKlein
Tempe, AZ
 
TKlein   Tempe, AZ
 
Cramers fold out topo guide rates it 10+ for what it's worth. Either way, its burly Sep 25, 2017

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