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Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation)
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Middle Section
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A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Blowin in the Wind S,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Breakfast Before Dessert TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A |
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C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coatimundi / Candyland Linkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good Action S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Good, the Bad & the Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hump Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Karl's Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oogie Boogie Boo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 |
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Psycho Killer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sorcerer T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stoned Jester, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thin Ice (variation) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Tom Thumb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.62908, -112.56665 |
| FA: | Leo Henson |
| Page Views: | 1,016 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Gabriel Kerbs on Dec 4, 2017 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th
Details
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
Description
If you've done Coatimundi and Candyland already and want a little adventure without going very far, this is a worthwhile outing. The name refers to the rock quality on certain sections of the route...
p1: start on Coatimundi, but climb the finger crack that branches right about 40 or 50 feet up. The finger crack turns to wide hands as it arches back to the left wall. When the crack meets back up with the normal Coatimundi route, there is a bolt and a final face sequence that brings you to a belay stance where the bolt is on the Coatimundi chimney (about 15 feet above the bolted anchor. (belay with bolt and #1 Camalot)
p2: Continue up Coatimundi via the normal chimney (recommended) or the right crack (very exfoliated and not recommended) until you are past the steep and kinda burly fist/layback section toward the top. Look for a bolt on the face out right, and head there. This takes you to an appealing finger crack that diagonals right. Follow this to the Candyland bolted anchor. (small wires/cams)
p3: Climb down the ramp on the right from the bolted anchor to the finger crack that leads to the unique flared chimney/corner that is protected with a bolt where the crack in the back ends. Finish in Peregrine shit and head right to complete the traverse pitch of Candyland
p4: Finish on Candyland or Slammer Jam to the top
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