Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Leo Henson
Page Views: 244 total · 13/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Dec 4, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

If you've done Coatimundi and Candyland already and want a little adventure without going very far, this is a worthwhile outing. The name refers to the rock quality on certain sections of the route...

p1: start on Coatimundi, but climb the finger crack that branches right about 40 or 50 feet up. The finger crack turns to wide hands as it arches back to the left wall. When the crack meets back up with the normal Coatimundi route, there is a bolt and a final face sequence that brings you to a belay stance where the bolt is on the Coatimundi chimney (about 15 feet above the bolted anchor. (belay with bolt and #1 Camalot)
p2: Continue up Coatimundi via the normal chimney (recommended) or the right crack (very exfoliated and not recommended) until you are past the steep and kinda burly fist/layback section toward the top. Look for a bolt on the face out right, and head there. This takes you to an appealing finger crack that diagonals right. Follow this to the Candyland bolted anchor. (small wires/cams)
p3: Climb down the ramp on the right from the bolted anchor to the finger crack that leads to the unique flared chimney/corner that is protected with a bolt where the crack in the back ends. Finish in Peregrine shit and head right to complete the traverse pitch of Candyland
p4: Finish on Candyland or Slammer Jam to the top

Location

Not in Cramer topo guide.

Variation of Coatimundi/Candyland

Protection

Doubles to #4 plus brass and a few small cams

Each pitch has a bolt somewhere on it to keep you on track

Photos

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