Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA 1967 Don Weaver,Rex Lambert, John Brucker. FFA 1971 Scott Baxter, Karl maelstrom, David Lovejoy
Page Views: 335 total · 26/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Jun 2, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Also the central rappel route for GM, this chimney system is one of those routes you’ll come to love the more you do it. Good practice for more serious objectives that have runout chimney pitches.

“Yosemite-style knee grinding chimney climbing” (Cramer guide)

Best to climb it on a day where there aren’t many other folks climbing, since this is the most common descent off of the Mountain

P1: climb chimney to the rap anchor on the Froggy Bottom ledge 
P2: continue up chimney to the next rap anchor
P3: climb hand crack in dihedral up to the High E or Beaver Cleaver finish .

Rap Route.

Protection

sparse.
Singles to #3or4 and some wires.
Best to be solid in chimneys if leading

Location

If you’ve rappelled off GM before, you’ve likely found this route before.

Corner formed by the “little brother buttress” resting against the right wall.

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