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Crack Lover's Variation

5.9, Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3.2 from 41 votes
FA: D Lovejoy, J Sisson, 1971
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Prescott Areas > Granite Mountain > Middle Section
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

A great way to spice things up! Depending on the variations you do, this route could be as easy as 5.7, but I will describe the most challenging way to go about it.

P1: Start just left of the first pitch of Reunion at an obvious wide hand/fist crack. Climb this (5.8) to a ledge with a tree.

P2: Climb up the dogleg crack in the face above the ledge (5.7) Above the dogleg, the crack makes a "Y". Continue straight up the beautiful fingercrack on the right to a belay on the ramp above (5.9)

For the next pitch, either climb the third pitch of Classic (5.7), or the second pitch of Karl's Corner (5.8) to the top of the Flying Buttress.

Rappel Coke Bottle, or continue up High Exposure (5.6+) or Beaver Cleaver (5.8+) to the top.

For an easier first pitch, do the first pitch of Reunion to the ledge with the tree instead.

For an easier second pitch, climb out left above the wide dogleg instead of straight up the thin fingers.

Location

Located on the left side of the flying buttress, around the corner to the right from the start of Classic and just left of the start of Reunion.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The final 5.9 finger crack on pitch 2
[Hide Photo] The final 5.9 finger crack on pitch 2
Starting the 2nd pitch of Crack Lovers
[Hide Photo] Starting the 2nd pitch of Crack Lovers

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris M
Hailey, ID
  5.7
[Hide Comment] 2nd pitch is great! The "5.9" fingers at the top is a bit soft for GM, but a good way to break into the grade. Oct 17, 2009
[Hide Comment] I would highly recommend gear to 4 inches unless you are very comfortable in the fist crack option of pitch 1. I feel that the start of this is the crux of the variation (5.9). Oct 21, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] what's a dogleg crack? Jul 23, 2010
[Hide Comment] hey jon- it's a crack with two obtuse angles spaced near 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up the pitch respectively; it resembles the shape of a dog's hind leg. Jul 24, 2010
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Has anyone linked pitch 1 and 2?

It's been awhile and can't remember the pitch lengths' well. Oct 26, 2015