Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA (A.4) Rusty Baillie, Bill Claggett 2/71, Corner and entire route, Ajax Greene, Chris Reveley 3/76
Page Views: 1,919 total · 13/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 3, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

p1 Standard, right of the Sundeck Boulder is a gully system start leading up to a band layer and belay.
p1 "direct" climbs up and right of a roof to small right facing crack ("10a" and a few moves of 5.9 to gain a ledge system that leads right to belay near traditional 1st pitch belay.
P2 is really fine thin crack (5.8) leading to base of right facing dihedral.
p3 is the meats and bones- 5.9ish to get established into corner then up the bald, slick corner with RP brass nuts if you are lucky (crux is above last good piece about 10'). A better corner leads past a little more 5.9 climbing to a belay.
The "John Dugan" takes a right face traverse (PG and 5.9) around the hardest moves in the corner.
p4 is a pretty airy pitch leading up to one last belay 5.8.
p5 5.6 climbing leads to top past a roof and left facing corner.

Location

Primarily a right facing system right of Green Savior and left of Sorcerer's corner.

Protection

Brass nuts for original corner, and standard GM rack for balance of route.

Photos