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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, the Bad & the Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Ice (variation) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA (A.4) Rusty Baillie, Bill Claggett 2/71, Corner and entire route, Ajax Greene, Chris Reveley 3/76
Page Views: 1,821 total · 13/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 3, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

p1 Standard, right of the Sundeck Boulder is a gully system start leading up to a band layer and belay.
p1 "direct" climbs up and right of a roof to small right facing crack ("10a" and a few moves of 5.9 to gain a ledge system that leads right to belay near traditional 1st pitch belay.
P2 is really fine thin crack (5.8) leading to base of right facing dihedral.
p3 is the meats and bones- 5.9ish to get established into corner then up the bald, slick corner with RP brass nuts if you are lucky (crux is above last good piece about 10'). A better corner leads past a little more 5.9 climbing to a belay.
The "John Dugan" takes a right face traverse (PG and 5.9) around the hardest moves in the corner.
p4 is a pretty airy pitch leading up to one last belay 5.8.
p5 5.6 climbing leads to top past a roof and left facing corner.

Location

Primarily a right facing system right of Green Savior and left of Sorcerer's corner.

Protection

Brass nuts for original corner, and standard GM rack for balance of route.

Photos

KyleKent  
 
The 5.10R corner is one of the finest pitches I have climbed on Granite Mountain, but be solid and not for the faint of heart. Oct 20, 2009
Bobby Treadwell
Prescott, AZ
 
Bobby Treadwell   Prescott, AZ
 
The R pitch is beautiful, but very R. Sep 26, 2012
We just climbed this gem a few days ago. We opted for the variation that avoids the 5.10 R section of the route. Airy and committing with a nice fall/swing potential if you blow-it. I believe the rating is 5.9 R for the variation. It "looks" more appealing to climb the 5.10 thin seam with tiny gear and maybe a better/safer fall??

Great climb with even some bear grass wrestling and caving moves to be discovered in route to the summit. Sep 8, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.10- R
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.10- R
spoooooky, technical corner pitch. it's awesome but pretty darn real in the no-fall zone

Also, don't count on being able to fiddle any small wires in.. Oct 3, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.10- R
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.10- R
Climbed a different variation to p3 en route to "Blowin' in the Breeze" recently:

from the ledge at the base of the corner, step right and climb a right-arching crack until it leads back left into the main corner. A bit dirty/untraveled, but well-protected. Just another option...
5.10. Jan 15, 2018
Gabe, that crack is part of Once in a Blue Moon. You probably already know this. Nice to meet you today as well. Peace out. ✌ Jan 31, 2018
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.10- R
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.10- R
Nice to meet you too Bob!
The shiny bolts on Onceinabluemoon were enticing, you ever hear of any free attempts? Maybe another bone to chew on for next season. Feb 12, 2018

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