Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rusty Baillie, Bob Godfrey, Jack Huack, Scot Baxter, Tom Taber
Page Views: 658 total, 28/month
Shared By: Flynn Mcfarland on Dec 7, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

This route links Green Savior Direct(P1) to Crisco Way(P2) to Green Savior(P3&4). A much more sustained wide crack outing and great link up if you want to crank hard on a classic Granite Mountain line(not recommended for a leader breaking into the grade). **Also watch out for your second on the traverse from Crisco way to the base of Green Savior, its tricky to protect and is exposed, a fall could be less than ideal for the follower.

Descent: Walk off Swamp Slabs or rapp the Coke Bottle

Location

The beginning is just right of the standard Green Savior start and just left of Once in a Blue Moon and Witblitz Direct(10a). You scramble up through a small Ponderosa Pine and will see a finger crack going straight up from a small section of slab with a horizontal crack separating the slab and finger crack, this is the start. This will get you to the same belay as if you did the regular Green Savior start and line you up for Crisco Way.

Protection

Two #4's will be comfortable, standard GMT rack otherwise. You can also look at Green Savior for other protection options.
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
This is absolutely the way to do Green Savior! Brian and I missed the direct start last year when we did Crisco with G.S. and that stellar first pitch makes for a super 4 pitch outing. Such a compelling line and it protects very nicely -- one #4 and one #6 did just fine and if the leader of Crisco takes the #6 it makes protecting the traverse a bit better (I didn't, choosing not to have the anchor while leading the thrutch fest, but had done the traverse before and didn't think of my follower). No matter, it's airy and not difficult. Nov 21, 2016