Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom
Page Views: 365 total · 17/month
Shared By: sean peters on Sep 8, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Written as Granite Mountains first 5.10 in the Cramer Guide...you will not be disappointed but maybe a bit dismayed in the rating during the crux(s). Pitch one is a fun, long 5.6 section that warms you up for the next two pitches. Pitch two has a variation that is a 5.11 but we climbed the 5.10 version. Stem up a section, find a horizontal crack and figure out how to clear/reach the next few moves, mindbending and hard. Pitch three also has a variation at the roof that climbs out right, we opted for the left exit. Prepare yourself for a few more mindbending (hard) moves to clear the roof and wander up a nice crack to a fine belay. Finish up easy terrain to the top.

This is a cool route and it felt much harder than several of the other routes rated at the same grade. I dare say, some of the moves felt more 5.11 than 5.10, gulp.

Location

Route is located to the right of Magnolia Thunder Pussy and left of Tom Thumb. Walk off the Swamp Slabs or wander over to the Coke Bottle rappels. The obvious roof pitch can be seen from the start of the route (pitch 3).

Protection

We brought doubles up to #3's and a single of #4 and #5. There is one fixed piton on pitch 3 below the roof if you exit out left (we did this exit).

Photos