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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coatimundi Whiteout/ Candyland Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Erik Powell, John Kitchell, Toni Ask, Geoff Grange, January '71
Page Views: 3,862 total, 39/month
Shared By: Chris M on Nov 21, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

From the intersection of the Flying Buttress and the Main wall, climb out diagonally right on small edges past three bolts. There is a small pocket that takes a small cam or nut after the last bolt. Continue up and around the corner. Belay on top of the cliff.

Descend from two bolts on a block atop the cliff. A 70m rope or 2 ropes are needed to make the first rappel. Continue rappelling the Coke Bottle via 2 more rappels.

Location

At the intersection of the top of the Flying Buttress and the main wall.

Protection

Bolts and a small cam or nut
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
Not nearly as good as High Exposure in the Gunks! 1 day ago
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.6
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.6
Ya, it's really just a last pitch to get you to the top. You can take HEE or Beaver Cleaver(5.8+) for your final pitch up. Alternatively, you can get to the Coke Bottle Raps after a little bit of easy scrambling from the top of the Flying Buttress to the south if you donn't want to do HE or BC for any reason.

Quite a few routes will get you there, but the most common is likely the Classic. Aug 18, 2015
So this route starts at the top of the flying buttress?

Which routes will get you up there? Aug 18, 2015
Miguel D
SLC
Miguel D   SLC
After the three bolts, you have two small cracks that will take small nuts, these two pieces should be enough after the bolts to get you safely to, and around the arete and into the easy gully on the other side. So you'll need five draws and two small nuts for this pitch. You could place pro around the arete, in the gully, but you'd have some unnecessary rope drag and an awkward direction for the belay. If you keep all pro on the wall before the arete (makes the most sense), you can belay comfortably sitting down on the edge looking down at your second if you build your anchor at the hangers for the coke bottle rap station

Also, we used a relatively new 60m rope and we had to rely on rope stretch to reach the second rap station. I stopped on rap on my prussik and reached below me to clip my personal anchor before untying the knots on the ends, rapping off the ends and then retying them for my second Aug 14, 2015
Chris M
Seattle, WA
 
Chris M   Seattle, WA
 
3rd bolt is an old 1/4" taper expansion bolt with a recalled Leeper hanger. While this bolt may hold a fall, both the bolt and hanger should be considered suspect. Holding one fall doesn't mean it'll hold another. Nov 18, 2014
MacM
Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
  5.6
MacM   Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
  5.6
2/3 of the bolts are relatively new. I took a whip on the 3rd not-so-good looking bolt and it was solid. No worries here, super fun route! Aug 6, 2012
Chris M
Seattle, WA
 
Chris M   Seattle, WA
 
this pitch is probably only around 100' depending on where you set up the belay Oct 7, 2011