Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Old School
Page Views: 4,479 total · 55/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Oct 25, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Mentioned under the Coatimundi Whiteout (5.11) route I thought this deserved to be added as is it's likely the best moderate link-up on the mountain.

P1: Start on CW with a 5.8 pitch to a bolted belay.

P2: Continue in the corner system 5.9 to another bolted belay just over the roof. P1 and 2 will link with a 70m but it's a stretch with the hardest climbing right at the end. NOTE: A traverse to the left in the middle of the pitch is noted in the Falcon guide, it may be easier but probably not for the 5.7 leader as it traverses unprotected on small flakes.

P3: Consider scrambling on easy terrain to the inside corner of the Great Roof on another bolted belay. From there ascend the inside corner of the roof and make a wild a exposed traverse pitch under the roof to the right side to an obvious gear belay under a crack.

P4: Climb a crack over an "ear" roof and take it to the top. It's been said that the small roof moves are 5.10 but I didn't think so.

Location

Start on Coatimundi Whiteout, finish exiting the Great Roof on the right side (Candyland).

Protection

Doubles to C4 #3 plus a #4 might help.

Photos