Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Old School
Page Views: 3,594 total, 58/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Oct 25, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


29 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

Mentioned under the Coatimundi Whiteout (5.11) route I thought this deserved to be added as is it's likely the best moderate link-up on the mountain.

P1: Start on CW with a 5.8 pitch to a bolted belay.

P2: Continue in the corner system 5.9 to another bolted belay just over the roof. P1 and 2 will link with a 70m but it's a stretch with the hardest climbing right at the end. NOTE: A traverse to the left in the middle of the pitch is noted in the Falcon guide, it may be easier but probably not for the 5.7 leader as it traverses unprotected on small flakes.

P3: Consider scrambling on easy terrain to the inside corner of the Great Roof on another bolted belay. From there ascend the inside corner of the roof and make a wild a exposed traverse pitch under the roof to the right side to an obvious gear belay under a crack.

P4: Climb a crack over an "ear" roof and take it to the top. It's been said that the small roof moves are 5.10 but I didn't think so.

Location

Start on Coatimundi Whiteout, finish exiting the Great Roof on the right side (Candyland).

Protection

Doubles to C4 #3 plus a #4 might help.
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Have now done this several times the direct way and the original way, rope soloing the original way to avoid the burl fest on the direct route. I had always liked the direct way as the straightest line, but find the original way to be much more elegant and fun. Delicate face moves out right from the top of the off-width chimney section, good gear before turning the corned into a sweet hand crack with lots of face features. Another delicate traverse to get to the anchors and it's great fun! Oct 10, 2017
Kevin D
Phoenix, AZ
 
Kevin D   Phoenix, AZ
 
Definitely a super classic old school route. Tests your skills on everything from chimney to off width to some face climbing. On the 2nd pitch the original route traverses left 2/3 of the way up (when the chimney narrows to a #4 placement) on thin flakes for about 10 feet to a smaller left facing corner. If you conine straight up instead it will be a more difficult #5 offwidth. Was glad to have a 4 and 5 camalot for pitch 4 traverse. Oct 22, 2014
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.9
Anyway to change the name to Coatamundi -> Candyland, since that's what this linkup is commonly referred to? CW finishes out left under the great roof, so "Great Roof Finish" isn't really accurate.

The traverse on the second pitch mentioned above is the route of the first ascentionists and shouldn't be missed. Head left on small edges and flakes toward a hanging crack in the middle of the face. This section is unprotected, but the hardest moves are right out of the chimney. Climb the hand to OW crack (save some big cams #3, 4, 5 camelot) until it peters out, moving right to 2 bolts on a block. Either belay here, or clip the anchor and continue up a low angle wide crack to a belay under the Great Roof. Due to the wandering nature of this pitch, good runner work is necessary to avoid paralyzing rope drag. Pitch is about 180' if taken to the anchors under the Great Roof.

The last pitch is pretty standard GM 5.9 Oct 28, 2013
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
if you're not traversing on the second pitch bring some etxra 2's and 3's, maybe a 4. i ran out of gear and ended up climbing the last 25 feet or so unprotected. beware the bag of sand. before making the crux moves on the fifth pitch take a second to look past your feet Nov 26, 2012
Bobby Treadwell
Prescott, AZ
 
Bobby Treadwell   Prescott, AZ
 
Classic link up! Oct 25, 2012