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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: FA: Scott Baxter, Jim Whitfield, 1971 FFA (P1/P2): Scott Baxter, Lee Dexter, 1971 FFA (Roof): John Long, Lynn Hill, Kieth Cumming, 1980
Page Views: 9,298 total, 68/month
Shared By: Timothy Roehr on Sep 22, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

Probably the most classic route at Granite Mountain. This is part of the Great Roof section. Start up a slab for approximately 50 feet. Then climb a flake that turns into a left facing corner. There is a two bolt hanging belay at about 120 feet. The next pitch is a steep offwidth and corner to another hanging belay at 160 feet. Climb a short easy 20 foot pitch to the next belay. The next pitch is the crux. Angle to the right and up under the Great Roof. Then jam and smear the crack to the left edge of the roof. The pitch ends after you pull the roof. Belay as soon as possible to avoid rope drag. This is a very exposed belay. The final scramble is up a easy gully, over another small roof, and finished at the triangle shaped boulder. And alternate finish is to link up on Candyland. This keeps the rating down to 5.9+. Descend through the Coke Bottle. Refer to the Climber's Guide to Granite Mountain for topo.

Location

It is advisable to get an early start so you beat the afternoon monsoon showers.

Protection

There are two bolt belays for the first two pitches. Most guides say fingers to #3 camalots. We did use a #4 also.
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
With an 80m rope, you can link the 2 crack pitches into one MONSTER pitch to the last bolted anchor under the roof with about 10 feet to spare! Oct 22, 2017
I-Habib
Prescott, AZ
 
I-Habib   Prescott, AZ
 
Wild!! Must do- Nice exposure pulling the bulge- especially when dangling on the rope cause its burrllyyy. used three blue camalots before I got to the anchor-- plan accordingly!! though anchor takes good reds and golds Sep 25, 2016
manuel rangel
Arizona
5.11c
manuel rangel   Arizona
5.11c
Funny but looking at the stats as of today, 9 of 16 people that ticked the route actually finished on Candyland or bailed. How can they rate the route if they didn't finish the actual route? Dec 23, 2014
Nate Young
Phoenix
Nate Young   Phoenix
youtu.be/6Nr945jxzBU

The off-width at the beginning of the second pitch was pretty difficult. Doug decided to try to face climb around the left and he fell about 10 feet up. Sep 22, 2014
Mike
Phoenix
 
Mike   Phoenix
 
This might be the hardest "5.11a" I have ever done. The roof pitch is wild and exposed.

For gear I would recommend bringing a second #4 camalot.

Also there is currently a bees nest under a boulder at the base. They didn't bother us, but be aware. Oct 7, 2009
I climbed this route twice this year. As far as broken holds on the traverse goes, I'm not quite sure. I know that the rock is a bit flaky at the bottom and I often scrape a little bit of rock off. Nonetheless, it is all very well protected and very stiff for the grade.

Pulling the roof is all crack climbing, a great crimp high out left, and some dynamic leg swinging. To quote my friend on the roof beta, "Be #$%@ing strong"!

Wonderful climb, the first two pitches to get under the roof are stellar and the traverse/pulling the roof is unforgettable! Enjoy Dec 29, 2008
Ha! Well, I hung at that fist section. :( Then I figured out the layback move. Cool! I'll be back. :) Oct 9, 2007
Did the Coatimundi-Candyland linkup yesterday. Anyone else find the second pitch of Coatimundi to be a little scary? I got up to the traverse left but it looked like a pretty dangerous fall, and with nothing but those flexing crusty scabs for holds I opted for the straight up way. Had to run it out a little to gain the upper crack but I think if I had brought a new #5 camalot it would have been totally safe. Still hard for 5.9 though! Whew! Oct 5, 2007
In regards to the rumor, I doubt that broken holds could significantly change the rating. The traverse is flaky, but you primarily use the cracks- either as a handrail or underclinging the vertical one above- with smears the primary footholds on the slab below. And the roof goes on jams, as you can see in pic of Heather- locker hands in the connector crack, then a long stretch to the right (or dyno if you are under 5'8" or so as is Heather!) to flared thin hands. The left hand works a thin finger crack, so I don't see broken holds changing it much. A very spectacular and intimidating route- go for it! Sep 1, 2007
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
Word on the street someone went up and busted off some serious holds. Any confirmation of this? May 12, 2007
manuel rangel
Arizona
5.11c
manuel rangel   Arizona
5.11c
I did CW a long while ago. I used a #4 friend out the last roof and fell on it quite a bit. Too much rope drag. The final iron cross took a lot out with the rope drag so maybe I'm off on thinking it's harder than 11a, I considered it more like 11c. Mar 20, 2007
There are many good "link ups" for this route. The original way is classic, climbing the first two pitches of Candyland then going left out the roof to finish on Coatumundi is awesome, climbing water streak delight is a good one too.
Pulling the crux roof on Coatumundi is one of the coolest 5.11's I've ever done. Nov 1, 2006
Timothy Roehr
Tucson,Az
Timothy Roehr   Tucson,Az
Sorry if I was not clear that the route finished out of the left side of the route. I am not an expert at adding routes here yet. But I will also second the "Old School Hard" feeling. We did the Candyland linkup and I was still battling to get up it. Exposure is very high. Sep 25, 2006
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Some helpful gear beta: At the left side of the Great Roof when pulling the final four foot roof, I think we had a blue camalot and also a red. The blue I remember being crucial. To set the belay above, I think you also need some blue camalots as well. It is an all gear belay. Wild pitch, and probably the most exposure GM has to offer. Did they ever replace those rusted pins with long-lifes? Sep 25, 2006