Coatimundi Whiteout [Edit]
Avg: 3.7 from 26 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|FA:||FA: Scott Baxter, Jim Whitfield, 1971 FFA (P1/P2): Scott Baxter, Lee Dexter, 1971 FFA (Roof): John Long, Lynn Hill, Kieth Cumming, 1980|
|Page Views:||9,540 total · 67/month|
|Shared By:||Timothy Roehr on Sep 22, 2006|
|Admins:||Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland|
Probably the most classic route at Granite Mountain. This is part of the Great Roof section. Start up a slab for approximately 50 feet. Then climb a flake that turns into a left facing corner. There is a two bolt hanging belay at about 120 feet. The next pitch is a steep offwidth and corner to another hanging belay at 160 feet. Climb a short easy 20 foot pitch to the next belay. The next pitch is the crux. Angle to the right and up under the Great Roof. Then jam and smear the crack to the left edge of the roof. The pitch ends after you pull the roof. Belay as soon as possible to avoid rope drag. This is a very exposed belay. The final scramble is up a easy gully, over another small roof, and finished at the triangle shaped boulder. And alternate finish is to link up on Candyland. This keeps the rating down to 5.9+. Descend through the Coke Bottle. Refer to the Climber's Guide to Granite Mountain for topo.
It is advisable to get an early start so you beat the afternoon monsoon showers.
There are two bolt belays for the first two pitches. Most guides say fingers to #3 camalots. We did use a #4 also.