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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom, Lee Dexter, Spring 1968
Page Views: 13,907 total · 104/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 15, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The Classic is pretty much just what it's name implies. It is also the longest, relatively easy, route on the Mountain. As a result, it tends to draw a lot of climbers, so don't be surprised if you have to queue up for this one.

P1) Start over on the left side of the Flying Buttress where it meets the wall. Climb easy ground up to a ledge, then continue in a corner until a band of rock allows a traverse right to more ledges and scramble up to a platform with a tree in the corner.

P2) The Classic Chimney - climb up blocks in the corner to gain the chimney above. Continue up to a nice belay above.

P3) Move left and climb up the crack formed by the flake against the wall, atop the flake, move up and right to gain a foot-wide ledge that runs up the wall. Tiptoe up the ledge passing a couple of small bushes to it's top, then move over to the corner, and pull over into a crack system that runs up and right across the Flying Buttress to it's far top corner.

To get to the top, take either the High Exposure Exit (5.6+) or the Beaver Cleaver (5.8+) exit. You can also work your way down off the top of the Flying Buttress from here to gain the Coke Bottle Rappels, but this is tricky. Please rope up if you do this!

Note: A lot of folks choose to start this route with the first pitch of Reunion (5.7), which is a nice left-facing corner about 20 feet right of the first Crack Lover's Variation pitch.

Location [Suggest Change]

Starts near where the left side of the Flying Buttress meets the main wall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack to 4"
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.7
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.7
Due to the number of climbs weaving in and out of this corner, there are a number of variations of the "Classic". Arguably the finest way to climb the Classic is the 1st pitch of Reunion, the 2nd pitch of Cracklover's, the 3rd pitch of Karl's Korner, and the High Exposure exit. Anyway you role- its Classic! Oct 17, 2009
jayci Ferrimani
Flagstaff
jayci Ferrimani   Flagstaff
I linked the third pitch with the High Exposure exit for a really nice long pitch. The HE exit is one of the most difficult 5.6 rated pitches I have done in a while. Expect something that feels like solid 5.8. The approach is long and the climbers trail is easy to lose your first time as I found out yesterday. Good climb. Nov 1, 2009
Mike Schen
Phoenix, AZ
Mike Schen   Phoenix, AZ
ccmski is right, 1st pitch of Reunion, 2nd pitch of Crack Lover and 3rd pitch of Karl's Korner, then 4th pitch on High Exposure is pretty impressive. Both the Climbing Arizona and Weekend Rock books describe Karl's Korner for the third pitch. Found Karls Korner 3rd pitch hard for 5.7 with the off-width and roof. On the other hand the High Exposure Exit I thought was easy for 5.6+. Its certainly not runout if you have a small cam for the crack. Oh anyone rapping off Coke Bottle with a 60m rope should put a sling on the anchor so its about 3-4 feet lower. That rap must be 105ft to 110ft because I didn't make it to the ground! Dec 22, 2009
I'd forgotten this fun climb. I did it over 30 years ago. It was great fun to look at these reminder shots. As I recall the Beaver Cleaver exit is appropriately named. Jan 28, 2011
Adam-phx-trad Saieed
Phoenix, AZ
  5.8+
Adam-phx-trad Saieed   Phoenix, AZ
  5.8+
so we attempted this climb over the weekend and man what an epic it turned out to be.
first the comments about losing the trail are indeed true and a bit understated as was this climbs difficulty.
i led pitches 2 and 3 and pitch 3 was a bear for a 5.7 it felt more like a 5.9 to me with that roof move. I fell at least once trying to pull it.
it took us several hours to complete the hike plus the climb up to the 3rd pitch and it was getting dark soon so we had to bail from the 3rd pitch due to exhaustion and slight dehydration only brought 1 liter of water each and ended up out there for 8 hours.

so long story short there is a partial rope hanging from a quick draw on pitch 3 and a fixed partial rope hanging from pitch 2 whoever does this climb next the gear is all yours and sorry for the mess left behind.

we lost 2 ropes and a few minor pieces of gear to this climb but everyone made it down safely with no injuries barring the multitude of scratches from bushwacking out after losing the trail near dark.

all in all i feel like a learned a great lesson from this climb and i will be back to complete it in the proper style Aug 27, 2012
BCramer
Prescott
BCramer   Prescott
Adam-phx-trad, You wrote about the third pitch, "...it felt more like a 5.9 to me with that roof move" This sounds like you might have strayed up Karl's Korner (5.9) like others who have posted here. Same thing happened to me on my first trip to the Mountain! Sep 27, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
It may be the Classic, but the description here is not so much. Since this page was "orphaned" I could reassign it to anyone interested in fixing up the pitch descriptions. It is after all one of the most climbed lines up there. Let me know. Sep 28, 2012
Gregory Cooper
Phoenix Arizona
5.7+
Gregory Cooper   Phoenix Arizona
5.7+
There is now a brand new shiny .75 forever stuck near the top of the first pitch of Reunion. If you can get this Excalibur unstuck, I owe you a case of beer. If not, feel free to clip it. Oct 24, 2014

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