Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom, Lee Dexter, Spring 1968
Page Views: 16,830 total · 104/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 15, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

The Classic is pretty much just what it's name implies. It is also the longest, relatively easy, route on the Mountain. As a result, it tends to draw a lot of climbers, so don't be surprised if you have to queue up for this one.

P1) Start over on the left side of the Flying Buttress where it meets the wall. Climb easy ground up to a ledge, then continue in a corner until a band of rock allows a traverse right to more ledges and scramble up to a platform with a tree in the corner.

P2) The Classic Chimney - climb up blocks in the corner to gain the chimney above. Continue up to a nice belay above.

P3) Move left and climb up the crack formed by the flake against the wall, atop the flake, move up and right to gain a foot-wide ledge that runs up the wall. Tiptoe up the ledge passing a couple of small bushes to it's top, then move over to the corner, and pull over into a crack system that runs up and right across the Flying Buttress to it's far top corner.

To get to the top, take either the High Exposure Exit (5.6+) or the Beaver Cleaver (5.8+) exit. You can also work your way down off the top of the Flying Buttress from here to gain the Coke Bottle Rappels, but this is tricky. Please rope up if you do this!

Note: A lot of folks choose to start this route with the first pitch of Reunion (5.7), which is a nice left-facing corner about 20 feet right of the first Crack Lover's Variation pitch.

Location

Starts near where the left side of the Flying Buttress meets the main wall.

Protection

Standard rack to 4"

Photos