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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coatimundi Whiteout/ Candyland Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: John Long '80 , First Flash Steve Byrne mid 80's
Page Views: 1,780 total, 14/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 3, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

Below the Sorcerer corner is a right arching flake 1 pitch off the ground. To access, climb the first pitch of Witblitz to belay at base of crack (easy 5th class). Wide lie backing leads to much more serious under-clinging.

JL said on supertopo:
"Lynn (Hill) got up the lyback at the bottom and up to the arch before she ran out of light. We left the gear and returned the next morning. This was just when Friends had first come out and we only had a couple - I think only one big one that would fit in the arch.

Lynn and I kept yo-yoing up to and out that arch and hanging on for dear life and trying to wiggle hexes in and backtracking because we were afraid of lowering off or falling onto the sketchy pro. Must have muscled out and back along that arch like five times before finally going (quite a ways) for it off Hexes I was sorta wondering about.

We had a third guy (Keith C.) who followed and pinged, ripped the last two Hexes and shot into a tremendous sideways whipper -the wall is pretty steep there. The arch wasn't nearly as bad as trying to wiggle in those hexes. That was truly a Gunsmoker."

Steve Byrne had said "if you run out the last 35 feet it is only 5.11+"

Location

Center of Granite Mountain, below the obvious Sorcerer streaked corner. Descend rappelling from Sorcerer's belay

Protection

2"-5", the more the merrier

Photos

GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.12-
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.12-
The rappel from the slung horn below the Sorcerer is 40m Oct 8, 2017
KyleKent  
 
Gear beta: 2-5" but bring mostly Black Diamond #3s and #4s (heavy on the 4's) Nov 2, 2015