Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Waugh 1985
Page Views: 297 total · 35/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Nov 7, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

A short, gently overhung crux pitch leads to two pitches of more moderate climbing and lesser quality rock.  

P1:  Begin left of the black water streak that marks the first pitch of CW Hicks.  There is a right-leaning crack/seam with a large flake in the very beginning.  Climb this, and I wouldn't recommend putting any gear behind that flake.  There are good options for gear and the pitch is like a long boulder problem.  Belay on the bushy ledge system that's shared by the neighboring routes. (45 ft, 5.12+)

P2:  Move left to the adjacent wall which is more grainy than most routes at GM.  Some route finding is necessary with this pitch, but you're aiming for a broken crack system just left of a downward-facing point in a small overlap (read the topo).  Careful not to yank anything off.. eventually you'll trend back right towards a crack that leads to a bush at a horizontal system. Belay here. (100ft, 5.10-)

P3:  Traverse left, passing a piton.  Round the corner and follow blocky terrain to the top. (50 ft, 5.8)

My recommendation would be to climb P1 and then take CW Hicks or Magnolia to the top.

Protection

A single rack from blue alien/green c3 to #2 and set of wires from micro to large will be plenty for the crux pitch and the anchor.  If you're climbing P1, that rack will also be sufficient for getting you to the top whichever way you decide to go.

Photos