Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Todd Trautner and Alan Prehmus
Page Views: 1,313 total · 24/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Dec 12, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Starts to the left of the broken crack system that heads up left of and parallel to Chim Chimney Direct. The lowermost part of the crack doesn't protect, which is why we and the Cramer guide show the start off to the left with a traverse right after placing some gear in the right arching flake. That said, even the left off-width start that can protect with a #5 and #4 is significantly more difficult than the rest of the climb. I was loathe to try the direct start.

I've edited the beta photo, but the updated topo doesn't seem to show unless you click on "view full size". I've put in yellow circles to show where the Cramer guide shows the belays. We combined p1 and p2 both times I've done it.

Continue up a short and nice crack to a ledge, then another crack to a ledge with a nice tree where the first natural belay could be, which is what Bill's guide shows. On both times doing this climb, I pitched out to the next ledge to have both P1 and P2 from Bill's guide done as P1. This P2 is up another short face to crack on easy ground to another big ledge, which is where we set the first belay both times.

The really fun pitch starts from this ledge and goes up a bit of a rotten crack system for about 15-20 ft before traversing a few feet right into a really nice vertical crack for another 15-20 feet. At this point the pro is sketchy and the right leaning diagonal weakness looks totally unprotected. I got a couple little BD X4s in and traversed across delicate ground LEFT to the arete and slightly around, where there's a nice, protectable right leaning crack leading to the big ledge above where Bill's guide has the two X's for bolts and the 4th "19" for this route (i.e. top of P3 for his guide, P2 for us). Also possible to climb down a finger crack up and up another hand crack in the left facing dihedral to access the same ledge with a bit easier climbing. From the ledge to the top is easy scrambling.

The first time done, we went left of the arete up easy, but super fun ground from here to the top, which can be pitched out or taken as a single, rope stretching 60+ meter pitch. We did it in two long pitches (full 60 m rope lengths), but it'd be easier for rope management to pitch out to the 4 that Cramer's guide shows.

Location

Just to the left of Chim Chimney Direct -- it's route 19 on Bill Cramer's fold out guide. At the lower end of the ramp that leads around to Pine Tree Ledge.

Protection

Doubles (or singles, depending on how you pitch it out) with a #4 if you do the direct start. The pic of the start actually show a #5 as the first piece, which we put in as we had it for Hassayampa. Probably not needed.

Photos