Avg: 3.1 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Todd Trautner and Alan Prehmus|
|Page Views:||1,690 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||arjunmh on Dec 12, 2015|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd|
I've edited the beta photo, but the updated topo doesn't seem to show unless you click on "view full size". I've put in yellow circles to show where the Cramer guide shows the belays. We combined p1 and p2 both times I've done it.
Continue up a short and nice crack to a ledge, then another crack to a ledge with a nice tree where the first natural belay could be, which is what Bill's guide shows. On both times doing this climb, I pitched out to the next ledge to have both P1 and P2 from Bill's guide done as P1. This P2 is up another short face to crack on easy ground to another big ledge, which is where we set the first belay both times.
The really fun pitch starts from this ledge and goes up a bit of a rotten crack system for about 15-20 ft before traversing a few feet right into a really nice vertical crack for another 15-20 feet. At this point the pro is sketchy and the right leaning diagonal weakness looks totally unprotected. I got a couple little BD X4s in and traversed across delicate ground LEFT to the arete and slightly around, where there's a nice, protectable right leaning crack leading to the big ledge above where Bill's guide has the two X's for bolts and the 4th "19" for this route (i.e. top of P3 for his guide, P2 for us). Also possible to climb down a finger crack up and up another hand crack in the left facing dihedral to access the same ledge with a bit easier climbing. From the ledge to the top is easy scrambling.
The first time done, we went left of the arete up easy, but super fun ground from here to the top, which can be pitched out or taken as a single, rope stretching 60+ meter pitch. We did it in two long pitches (full 60 m rope lengths), but it'd be easier for rope management to pitch out to the 4 that Cramer's guide shows.