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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Todd Trautner and Alan Prehmus
Page Views: 761 total · 24/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Dec 12, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Starts to the left of the broken crack system that heads up left of and parallel to Chim Chimney Direct. The lowermost part of the crack doesn't protect, which is why we and the Cramer guide show the start off to the left with a traverse right after placing some gear in the right arching flake. That said, even the left off-width start that can protect with a #5 and #4 is significantly more difficult than the rest of the climb. I was loathe to try the direct start.

I've edited the beta photo, but the updated topo doesn't seem to show unless you click on "view full size". I've put in yellow circles to show where the Cramer guide shows the belays. We combined p1 and p2 both times I've done it.

Continue up a short and nice crack to a ledge, then another crack to a ledge with a nice tree where the first natural belay could be, which is what Bill's guide shows. On both times doing this climb, I pitched out to the next ledge to have both P1 and P2 from Bill's guide done as P1. This P2 is up another short face to crack on easy ground to another big ledge, which is where we set the first belay both times.

The really fun pitch starts from this ledge and goes up a bit of a rotten crack system for about 15-20 ft before traversing a few feet right into a really nice vertical crack for another 15-20 feet. At this point the pro is sketchy and the right leaning diagonal weakness looks totally unprotected. I got a couple little BD X4s in and traversed across delicate ground LEFT to the arete and slightly around, where there's a nice, protectable right leaning crack leading to the big ledge above where Bill's guide has the two X's for bolts and the 4th "19" for this route (i.e. top of P3 for his guide, P2 for us). Also possible to climb down a finger crack up and up another hand crack in the left facing dihedral to access the same ledge with a bit easier climbing. From the ledge to the top is easy scrambling.

The first time done, we went left of the arete up easy, but super fun ground from here to the top, which can be pitched out or taken as a single, rope stretching 60+ meter pitch. We did it in two long pitches (full 60 m rope lengths), but it'd be easier for rope management to pitch out to the 4 that Cramer's guide shows.

Location

Just to the left of Chim Chimney Direct -- it's route 19 on Bill Cramer's fold out guide. At the lower end of the ramp that leads around to Pine Tree Ledge.

Protection

Doubles (or singles, depending on how you pitch it out) with a #4 if you do the direct start. The pic of the start actually show a #5 as the first piece, which we put in as we had it for Hassayampa. Probably not needed.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Modified the description and also the route "map" after redoing this route last weekend and getting great input from a couple folks. Basically, when Brian and I did it the first time we misread the Cramer topo for this route and didn't think to take the obvious vertical crack up the middle of the upper face that is pitch 3 in Bill's guide, but ends up being pitch 2 the way I'd recommend. So, redid it with Nestor this past weekend and got on that upper crack, which makes the route even more fun. Hopefully the redrawn topo on photo makes better sense and my edited description will help. Definitely worth doing and it works well to do this before or after Hassayampa to make for a good fun moderate G.M. pair of climbs. Oct 12, 2016
Perhaps it was the cold and the wind but the third pitch (if you follow Cramers guide) felt harder than pitch 2 of Said and Done and pitch 1 of Magnolia TP. Maybe harder is not the right term-the gear did not seem that awe-inspiring in a few sections on that pitch but then again it is only a "5.8".....just make sure you climb 5.12 at the gym and all should be well. Sep 23, 2017
Let it be known... When the crack and gear peter out on the third pitch (if not linking pitches) move LEFT around the arete to the right leaning crack.

To the one in charge of the route description on this page... fix this error, for going right (as you described) is neither safe nor pleasant. Dec 31, 2017
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Thanks Boots -- text is corrected with a capital "LEFT". This was a typo on my part and I apologize. Just did the climb again a couple weeks ago and it never crossed my mind to go right from there. It's a delicate left traverse to the arete, but then a nice clean right leaning crack to the main ledge. Jan 1, 2018

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