Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, the Bad & the Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Ice (variation) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Waugh, Leo Henson, Jay Anderson, 1987
Page Views: 3,277 total · 265/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

The Line you look at every time you arrive at the Front Porch.

Follows the obvious crack/right-trending seam up the center of the Flying Buttress on the face that is closest to the Front Porch.

P1: Start with a few moves of tree-stemming off of the Oak at the base of the route. Climb the crack (start of "Hotline") up to a no-hands stance at the large horizontal dike. Continue up, heading right to the shallow alcove/depression. Climb past the short wide crack to the right-trending seam and follow this to a belay where the seam meets the hand-crack. There’s a bolted anchor, but if continuing to the top there’s a better stance a bit higher and plenty of options for gear.
P2: Continue up the inviting hand-crack that narrows to fingers and then a seam. Lots of pin-scars. (mostly 5.9ish with a 5.10 sequence at the top). Quality pitch, and highly recommended.

Belay at the top of the buttress and walk to the Coke Bottle rappel on the [climber's] right-side of the buttress, or continue to the top via "High Exposure" or "Beaver Cleaver".

Aid climbers: PLEASE leave your hammer on the ground for this one - it’s been marred plenty already.

Location

Flying Buttress.

**Purchase Bill Cramer's fold-out topo-guide if you intend on spending any time at Granite Mountain **

Protection

Healthy selection of stoppers from micro to finger-size. Double set of finger-size cams, one or two hand-size cams and a few smalls as well. Confidence-inspiring #4 camalot for the beginning of the business. Quickdraws for pitons and wires.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Sweet! This was an incredible send for Gabe and so inspirational to watch in the making. He's been working it for the last month or so and every time on it was just a bit closer to sending. A gorgeous route that I've always thought of as an aid route until I watched Gabe do it free. Inspirational climbing indeed! Way to go Gabe!! Oct 12, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.13-
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.13-
with two 70m ropes, you can toprope the whole rig (both pitches) in one epic pitch while your partner belays while drinking coffee on the front porch!
Life is good. Dec 12, 2017
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
It’s always been .13-. I’ve never heard of anyone calling it anything else. Must have been an entry error. May 8, 2018
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.13-
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.13-
Someone who climbs the grade more consistently than me said they thought it was easier so I switched it to see what folks would say...thanks for the input!
Maybe this season it will get more attention. May 8, 2018
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
I wonder how many free ascents the route has actually had? Any idea on that Gabe? I want to say Ty Mack and Matt Childers did the thing when they were living in Flag around Y2K. Maybe with modern pro it’s lost that .13- edge? It happens.

I remember getting up to the Front Porch one day (circa Y2K) to see a guy aiding this line. He was up there slamming in pins and you could hear the granite crystals raining down from inexperienced hammering. My friend Seth started giving him what for, for pounding pins on a route that had been freed well over a decade beforehand. The guy got super pissed off, and said something like “yah, well watch this” as he stuck another pin in and went to hammer it with all his strength. But the mighty blow was glancing and the pin got shot out of the crack like a bullet winging through the air. The pang of steel and the fluttering echos of the sailing pin seemed to stop in time until we finally heard it rattle amongst some boulders thirty feet away. It would be hard to say if this guys ascent changed the route, but it’s possible I guess. Hopefully the days of pounding steel at GM are long over. May 9, 2018
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.13-
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.13-
Thats an upsetting story, JJ. I assume that people know better these days. Theres definitely pin scarring throughout the route but I thought that was from the days before it was freed. Who knows.

I don't know the history of people trying the route, except for one friend who TR'd it clean years ago (same dude who upgraded the bolt at the anchor). Also when I first tried it, I found a fixed stopper that had "PC 07" etched into it, so at least one Prescott College student had been on it in the past (the stopper must have been borrowed from the PC gear warehouse).

Im not sure that modern gear takes much out of the bite, as it's still largely protected with wires, except for one large (#4 ) cam, which maybe didn't exist back in the day? Dunno.

I'll keep my ears peeled next season. Maybe more folks will try it now that its on MountainProject and we can get a better consensus.

And thanks for the history, I appreciate hearing stories from the past about this place I've recently come to love. May 9, 2018
Greg Opland    
That's a jacked-up story JJ. Crying shame. Should have told the a-hole that, even if he was aiding, the thing had been done with clean aid for decades as well, so he should go somewhere else to pound his pin.

I've asked around whenever the subject comes up of who's done the route, and it was always "I knew a guy..." or "I heard about a guy...", but not much solid information. I'd be interested in hearing names if there are more.

Gabe you little sandbagger! Ha ha ha ha.
Something tells me a line is NOT going to form now that it's on the Proj!! :-) May 9, 2018
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
It was I who switched it back. Like I said, in twenty years never heard anyone downgrade it. May 14, 2018
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Fitness levels are so much higher these days I think if people get it easier than they think they should they downgrade. Like the first twelves we put up we didn't believe or were not arrogant enough to think it could be that hard so we called them 11+. May 15, 2018
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.13-
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.13-
For the record, this thing kicked my ass plenty and I think the original grade is probably fair. I just ain't the most credible source. May 15, 2018
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Unraveling decades of sandbags is quite the task. Like I said before, it looked like an entry error to me, as Gabe’s personal vote was .13-. Downgrading before the send Josh?

I guess my thoughts on this line, given the talent of the FA team and so few known ascents, is to let the consensus machinery of MP sort it out by people who have actually redpointed the thing and given their two cents on the grade. I’ll never be back on it and never thought of trying to redpoint it so I politely bow out of further discussions. Josh if you feel it’s the thing to do, change it back to .12d and people can sort it from there I suppose. May 24, 2018

More About A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose)

Printer-Friendly