A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose)
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim Waugh, Leo Henson, Jay Anderson, 1987|
|Page Views:||492 total · 109/month|
|Shared By:||GabrielKoybz on Nov 7, 2017|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThe Line you look at every time you arrive at the Front Porch.
Follows the obvious crack/right-trending seam up the center of the Flying Buttress on the face that is closest to the Front Porch.
P1: Start with a few moves of tree-stemming off of the Oak at the base of the route. Climb the crack (start of "Hotline") up to a no-hands stance at the large horizontal dike. Continue up, trending right to the shallow alcove/depression. Climb past the short wide crack to the right-trending seam and follow this to a belay where the seam meets the hand-crack. There is a bomber bolt (thanks Evan) & old piton for a belay - or you can build a gear belay in the crack.
P2: Continue up the inviting hand-crack that narrows to fingers and then a seam. Lots of pin-scars. (mostly 5.9ish with a 5.10 sequence at the top). Quality pitch, and highly recommended.
Belay at the top of the buttress and walk to the Coke Bottle rappel on the [climber's] right-side of the buttress, or continue to the top via "High Exposure" or "Beaver Cleaver".
**Purchase Bill Cramer's fold-out topo-guide if you intend on spending any time at Granite Mountain **
ProtectionHealthy selection of stoppers from micro to finger-size. Double set of finger-size cams, one or two hand-size cams and a few smalls as well. Confidence-inspiring #4 camalot for the beginning of the business. Quickdraws for pitons and wires.
One good bolt and a piton at the top of P1 for an anchor with new webbing, but there are plenty of options for gear in the crack as well.