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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Waugh, Leo Henson, Jay Anderson, 1987
Page Views: 492 total · 109/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

The Line you look at every time you arrive at the Front Porch.

Follows the obvious crack/right-trending seam up the center of the Flying Buttress on the face that is closest to the Front Porch.

P1: Start with a few moves of tree-stemming off of the Oak at the base of the route. Climb the crack (start of "Hotline") up to a no-hands stance at the large horizontal dike. Continue up, trending right to the shallow alcove/depression. Climb past the short wide crack to the right-trending seam and follow this to a belay where the seam meets the hand-crack. There is a bomber bolt (thanks Evan) & old piton for a belay - or you can build a gear belay in the crack.
P2: Continue up the inviting hand-crack that narrows to fingers and then a seam. Lots of pin-scars. (mostly 5.9ish with a 5.10 sequence at the top). Quality pitch, and highly recommended.

Belay at the top of the buttress and walk to the Coke Bottle rappel on the [climber's] right-side of the buttress, or continue to the top via "High Exposure" or "Beaver Cleaver".

Location

Flying Buttress.

**Purchase Bill Cramer's fold-out topo-guide if you intend on spending any time at Granite Mountain **

Protection

Healthy selection of stoppers from micro to finger-size. Double set of finger-size cams, one or two hand-size cams and a few smalls as well. Confidence-inspiring #4 camalot for the beginning of the business. Quickdraws for pitons and wires.
One good bolt and a piton at the top of P1 for an anchor with new webbing, but there are plenty of options for gear in the crack as well.

Photos

GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.13-
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.13-
with two 70m ropes, you can toprope the whole rig (both pitches) in one epic pitch while your partner belays while drinking coffee on the front porch!
Life is good. Dec 12, 2017
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Sweet! This was an incredible send for Gabe and so inspirational to watch in the making. He's been working it for the last month or so and every time on it was just a bit closer to sending. A gorgeous route that I've always thought of as an aid route until I watched Gabe do it free. Inspirational climbing indeed! Way to go Gabe!! Oct 12, 2017

More About A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose)

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