Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Crux ? 1980's Colorado team, Balance of Route Jim Waugh with Frank Valendo and Chris Raypole
Page Views: 2,376 total · 17/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Sep 3, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

P1: Step left off of stacked blocks and do some unprotected moves to gain an overgrown flake/crack system which leads to a ledge. Continue up and over an overhang, to easier ground and the large Sorcerer ledge (5.9).
There are other (recommended) ways to reach this ledge. See “The Sorcerer” page for alternatives.

P2: Climb the finger crack, passing a large flake and a shallow right-facing dihedral. There’s an updated bolted anchor (equipped for rappel) at the end of the dihedral. 
Stellar pitch! (5.12a).

P3: Meandering face climbing leads past 5 bolts. The crux is well-protected but the climbing gets  runout as the difficulty eases. This pitch ends on a ledge at a bolted anchor shared by the route Kingpin . (5.10c).

P4: Angle right and follow a thin crack/groove system past a somewhat random bolted anchor to the crux roof pull of Coatimundi. Multiple 11- pulls on this pitch. (5.11a).

P5: Climb easy ground to the top of the cliff. 

Location

The 2nd and 3rd pitches are Located between the right-facing Sorcerer corner and the left-facing Kingpin corner, on the main wall.

Protection

standard GM rack.

Wires and cams from micro to #1 camalot for crux pitch. Draws for the bolted pitch. 

Photos