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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Crux ? 1980's Colorado team, Balance of Route Jim Waugh with Frank Valendo and Chris Raypole
Page Views: 2,092 total · 17/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 3, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

p1, 5.9 crack and flake system leads to main Sorcerer ledge.
p2, An unknown party had made the hard moves up the crack, shallow corner and bailed off once bolts were required. Hard climbing up mostly thin but solid pro leads to a sling belay.
p3, meandering face climbing leads past 5 bolts to a crux "inches" short of the thin ledge leading right to the shared belay with Kingpin. This 5.10 climbing is fully 20' out from last bolt but is an all clean fall if you blow it.
p4, links a feature crack/groove (5.11-) to the crux fist move at the great roof on Coatimundi.
p5, leads up to summit.

Location

Right of Sorcerer corner, left of Kingpin corner are the 2nd and 3rd pitches.

Protection

brass nuts and standard GM rack- travel light on p3 lead!!!!

Photos

GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.12-
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.12-
Bolted anchor at the end of the 5.12 pitch could use a new pair of bolts (I did replace the webbing). Bolted 5.10 pitch is fantastic and the bolts (good bolts) are where ya need them.

Hell of a fine line! Oct 29, 2017
The face pitch is runout at the top, but on easier ground (5.7-5.8). The crux move comes early in the pitch, and pulls a bulge with a bolt right at you. Not much fear factor on this pitch. Dec 22, 2010