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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rusty Baillie and Jack Huack
Page Views: 268 total · 10/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Dec 13, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

This is a the single pitch off-width that seems like the best way to do Green Savior and is reflected in the description of "Triple Direct". But, it shows up as a different route in the Cramer guide and the descriptions of Green Savior and Triple Direct can be confusing about how Crisco Way fits in. If you're heading up to do the main part of Green Savior, this is definitely a pitch not to be missed, though it is stouter and more of a thrutch than anything on G.S. That said, it protects easily and well and taking it calmly, one thrutch at a time works very well. Like the Triple Direct description says, be sure to protect the traverse right to the start of the main pitches of G.S. as the follower could take a very bad swing. Protection is ample and varied and doesn't really need anything wide, even though Cramer notes "Put those big cams to good use."

Worked well to start left side in and then switch to right side in when the hand cracks become usable.

Location

If you start on the traditional way up Green Savior, then this pitch becomes obvious as soon as you go up and over the "window" and look up towards the main stretch of Green Savior. Crisco Way is the obvious and compelling off-width that is up and left. See photo.

Protection

Singles to #3. If you've got wide stuff for the upper part of G.S. you might use, but not necessary as the hand and finger cracks are great in the back of the off width. Upper traverse is tricky to protect.

Photos

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