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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Treiber, Byrd, Parker, 5.10+ upper route 1973 - direct (original A.2 pitch) Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle, and Herb North, 1981
Page Views: 1,729 total · 13/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 12, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

Pitch 1. To the left of Magnolia Thunder Pussy look for a steep line with a well defined dihedral in the middle. The first pitch does not see much (any?) action and is quite dirty. We avoided the first pitch by climbing pitch 1 of Magnolia. So, however you go about it find your way up to the base of the large dihedral on climbers left.

Pitch 2.This is a demanding pitch with thin technical moves down low with small pro, and more strenuous moves out of a slot. I fell on this pitch pulling a small cam out. Very technical if I remember correctly, and may feel like .11 on the onsight, though the grade we had was .10c. Belay at a small stance on the right side not too far after the slot.

Pitch 3. On the last pitch, climb left to a handcrack, and through some thuggy 5.9 terrain to an easier chimney to the top.

Location

To the right of the Swamp Slabs past a VERY large dihedral system, C.W. Hicks is the next system right.

Protection

Standard rack, maybe some extra small wires, steel or brass. Cams from small to large.

Photos

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GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.11-
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.11-
P1 crux piton replaced (12/17), making this a well-protected 11- pitch that I highly recommend. No more decking potential. Standard rack including a #3 will give you plenty of options to sew up the rest of the pitch. Dec 3, 2017
If suiting up for the first pitch, a slider nut in a square pin scar may keep you off the ground at the crux, or not. Fun liebacking for the rest of the pitch. Brass offsets are pretty helpful low on pitch 2. Quite a good line. May 8, 2014
This route was named after buddy Charles Wellington Hicks because they thought his name sounded cool. FA: Rusty Baillie and Karl Karlstrom as a 5.9, AO (off a couple of fixed pins that aren't there anymore. Then the rest of your FFA info is correct. Sep 9, 2007