Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Treiber, Byrd, Parker, 5.10+ upper route 1973, Rusty Bailie and Karl Karlstrom 5.9 A2, FFA Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle, and Herb North, 1981
Page Views: 1,967 total · 13/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 12, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

C.W. Hicks’ 2nd pitch is one of the best on the mountain though it is not all that well protected. The climbing is excellent on all three pitches if your head game is good. Jamming, stemming, thin cranking, and of course, some meat and potatoes thuggyness. Hicks has it in spades.

Pitch 1, 5.11-
To the left of Magnolia Thunder Pussy look for a steep line with a well defined dihedral in the middle. The splitteresque first pitch finally got some cleaning and a pin replaced (2017). It reportedly pairs well with the vibe of the upper pitches so bring your game. Back in the day many people avoided the neglected first pitch by climbing pitch 1 of Magnolia. So, however you go about it find your way up to the base of the large dihedral on climbers left.

Pitch 2, 5.11-
This is a demanding pitch with thin technical moves down low with small pro and more strenuous moves out of a slot. I fell on this pitch pulling a small cam out. Very technical, and may feel like .11 on the onsight, though the grade we had circa Y2K was .10c. Belay at a small stance on the right side not too far after the slot.

Pitch 3, 5.9+ 
On the last pitch, climb left to a handcrack, and through some thuggy 5.9 terrain to an easier chimney to the top.
You can do the Swamp Slabs Descent or walk over the top to the Coke Bottle Rappels.

Location

To the right of the Swamp Slabs past a VERY large dihedral system, C.W. Hicks is the next system right.

Protection

Standard rack to #3, extra small wires, steel or brass. 

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