Avg: 3.4 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Treiber, Byrd, Parker, 5.10+ upper route 1973, Rusty Bailie and Karl Karlstrom 5.9 A2, FFA Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle, and Herb North, 1981|
|Page Views:||2,774 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on Nov 12, 2006|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen|
C.W. Hicks’ 2nd pitch is one of the best on the mountain though it is not all that well protected. The climbing is excellent on all three pitches if your head game is good. Steep jamming, desperate stemming, thin cranking, and of course, some blue collar thugging all await the well rounded climber.Pitch 1, 5.11-
To the left of Magnolia Thunder Pussy look for a steep line with a well defined dihedral in the middle. The splitteresque first pitch finally got some cleaning and a pin replaced (2017). It reportedly pairs well with the vibe of the upper pitches so bring your game. Back in the day many people avoided the neglected first pitch by climbing pitch 1 of Magnolia. So, however you go about it find your way up to the base of the large dihedral on climbers left.
Pitch 2, 5.11-
This is a demanding pitch with thin technical moves down low with small, dubious pro and more strenuous moves out of a slot. Very technical and may feel more like .11a on the onsight, though the grade we had circa Y2K was .10c. Belay at a small stance on the right side not too far after the slot.
Pitch 3, 5.9+
On the last pitch, climb left to a hand crack and through some thuggy 5.9 terrain to an easier chimney to the top.
You can do the Swamp Slabs Descent or walk over the top to the Coke Bottle Rappels.