Type: Trad, Aid, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brian Gardner, Randy Hamm '70s?
Page Views: 148 total · 48/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Sep 7, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Wild roof crack through the Great Roof.  

From Candyland's bolted anchor on the ledge beneath the roof, climb the traverse pitch on Candyland (5.7) until you spot a bolt in the roof behind you.  Bust out your aid trinkets and aid the roof.  At the lip, soak up the exposure before reaching a stance at a bolted anchor.  (5.7 C2, ~50ft)

From the belay, tiptoe your way up the slab then step left to the crack. Continue up 5.7 fingers to the top. (5.9 PG13 50') 

Location

Climb Candyland or Coatimundi to reach the roof.  Alternatively, climb Slammer Jam or GBU to the ledge at the end of the Candyland Traverse and belay there.

Protection

Wires from micro to large. Double rack of cams from micro to #3 plus a few extra finger-sized pieces. Offset cams & wires in the smaller sizes were helpful. Dozen draws & some extendibles. aiders, daisies, and a fifi hook.
Bolt in the roof is trash but good enough for aid. Fixed pin is not going anywhere. Anchor at the lip of the roof was upgraded summer 2018.

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