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Oogie Boogie Boo
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C2 PG13
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Middle Section
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A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Blowin in the Wind S,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Breakfast Before Dessert TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A |
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C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coatimundi / Candyland Linkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good Action S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Good, the Bad & the Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hump Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Karl's Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oogie Boogie Boo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 |
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Psycho Killer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sorcerer T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stoned Jester, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thin Ice (variation) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Tom Thumb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.62908, -112.56665 |
| FA: | Brian Gardner, Randy Hamm '70s? |
| Page Views: | 891 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Gabriel Kerbs on Sep 7, 2019 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th
Details
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
Description
Wild roof crack through the Great Roof.
From Candyland's bolted anchor on the ledge beneath the roof, climb the traverse pitch on Candyland (5.7) until you spot a bolt in the roof behind you. Bust out your aid trinkets and make a long reach to the bolt to access the the roof crack. At the lip, soak up the exposure before reaching a stance at a bolted anchor. (5.7 C2, ~50ft)
From the belay, tiptoe your way up the slab then step left to the crack. Continue up 5.7 fingers to the top. (5.9 PG13 50')
Location
Climb Candyland or Coatimundi to reach the roof. Alternatively, climb Slammer Jam or GBU to the ledge at the end of the Candyland Traverse and belay there.
Protection
Wires from micro to large. Double rack of cams from micro to #3 plus a few extra finger-sized pieces. Offset cams & wires in the smaller sizes were helpful. Dozen draws & some extendibles. aiders, daisies, and a fifi hook.
Bolt in the roof is trash but good enough for aid. Fixed pin is not going anywhere. Anchor at the lip of the roof was upgraded summer 2018.
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