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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Scott Baxter, Tom Taber, 1968
Page Views: 5,238 total, 36/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

Green Savior was supposedly named for a small tree that saved Tom Taber's bacon when he took a whipper off the route during the FA. The "savior" is gone now, but the route is a classic!

You start over in the mid-section of the mountain, below a big chimney system (see pics) that identifies the fourth pitch of the route.

P1) Climb a brushy corner system on the left side of a buttress to a belay just short of a "window" through the rock. Move the belay to the other side of the "window" to start the second pitch.

P2) Climb up corners to a really nice 5.5 crescent shaped crack that leads up to Comfort Ledge, a big sloping ledge system below the routes offwidth crux pitch.

P3) The business! Get into the slot and chimney up to the offwidth in the bulge. What makes this only 5.8 is all the great handholds here and there that get you through the wide without having to resort to classic offwidth techniques. Once above the slot, continue up to a small stance above (15 feet or so) and belay.

P4) The big chimney above. Some awkward climbing puts you in the oblique chimney. Pro goes in the back. Continue in this until you exit the chimney and then follow corners above to the top. Getting to the actual top of the rock has always seemed rather difficult to me, but pick the easiest line.

Protection

Standard Rack up to #4 Camalot. If you want a little extra, you can bring a #4.5 Camalot, but no need to bring the #5.

Photos

GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.9+
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.9+
potentially suicide or at least a pants soiler if 5.8 is near your limit.
crisco is the way to go Sep 10, 2017
Mark Force
Ashland, Oregon
Mark Force   Ashland, Oregon
Green Savior is an immersion in that difficult to grade, but know it when you climb it, experience of stoutness that some people refer to as "blue collar" climbing. Include the direct start and Crisco Way for the full effect! Apr 25, 2017
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
If you don't like unprotected chimney (like me), then heed Bill Cramer's advice and bring the wide gear! We were very happy to have both the #4 and the #6 (got walked delightfully up one of the chimney sections and used appreciatively elsewhere). Now I understand why people wear knee pads! A great route and the Crisco variation is a good way to go. I imagine the "hardness" factor depends on how comfortable/good you are with off width and chimney. Was just what we expected with the Cramer guide and the Rock Climbing AZ book description. Would do this route again! Dec 9, 2015
J tot
Tempe, AZ
J tot   Tempe, AZ
This felt harder than anything on Candyland. Nov 3, 2013
Tradiban  
 
Belaying just post the "window" a 70m took this all the way to nice belay ledge just below the top. Oct 25, 2012