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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: L Treiber, J Byrd 1972
Page Views: 1,950 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tavis Ricksecker on Jun 26, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

This is one of the two exit pitches from the top of the Flying Buttress. Though better protected than the High Exposure exit, this pitch is still heads up, and stiff for the grade.

From the top of the flying buttress, climb straight up thin incut edges on exposed slab past several widely spaced bolts, aiming for the obvious right facing dihedral above. Just before you reach the dihedral, make a crux mantle onto a shelf a ways above your last bolt. Put some gear into the nice crack in the dihedral, and cruise to the top.

Protection

Several finger to hand sized pieces, some quickdraws.

Photos

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Yep, falling from the crux wouldn't break any bones, but you might get some road rash! :) Jun 26, 2007
I think this route is less protected than the High Exposure exit. It really only has the one bolt (before reaching the crack system) and a fall from just below that bolt or just before reaching the crack would be a nasty fall. The High Exposure Exit has two bolts. On each route they do share an extra bolt at the start, but this bolt is so low that it hardly counts as protection. You're going to hit the buttress regardless of this bolt. Also, High Exposure is 5.6 and has good holds. The Beaver Clever seems more like 5.9 to me and the crux is well above that bolt. That's my two cents anyway. I just did it two days ago and it was scarier than the pitches I did to get up there (Said and Done to Reunion) and nearly as hard. Full value pitch. Oct 2, 2007
Huh, well..

I led this pitch because High E scared me too much. Go figure. ? Feb 16, 2008
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.8+ PG13
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.8+ PG13
Won't break your bones? Falling before the second bolt would really hurt.... Apr 10, 2008
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9- PG13
Daniel Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9- PG13
I finished on this after doing the Said and Done to Reunion link up because it looked like the best line to the summit. Echoing Bill Wright's comment below, this pitch felt more like 5.9 and has at least two spots where a fall wouldn't be ideal. Once you get to the flake, the pro is solid and protects the upper crux well. That being said, this is a MUCH better line (solid 3 stars) compared to the High Exit finish to the right in my opinion. This pitch is deserving of its 3 stars. The High Exit variation has you traversing right to an easy ramp in order to "escape." To each their own. Nov 30, 2017
This is not better protected than the High Exposure exit as mentioned and just a WEEE bit harder. I guess if you are going to fall maybe you could jump to one side in order not to be cleaved on the Flying Buttress, a better option would be not to fall. Jan 16, 2018
You can clip the second bolt on the high exposure exit just just off to the right with a long runner which would swing your potential fall away from the top of the buttress. The rope drag is not noticeable at all if you do it right. It still ends up run out from there which keeps it "fun". Jan 31, 2018

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