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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, the Bad & the Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Ice (variation) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Tom Thumb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jack Hauck, David Lovejoy, 1971 FFA (entire route): Jim Waugh, 1979
Page Views: 1,922 total · 13/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 13, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

If you are looking at Green Savior, look just left for a fairly conspicuous tower. On the left side of the tower is a small roof with a fist crack out the left side.

Pitch 1, 5th class: Climb up fractured, broken rock (kind of spooky) to a belay 15’ below the roof.

Pitch 2, 5.11-: A classic crack climbing pitch with an off size roof. Climb up rattly rock to roof. Plug some decent gear in and climb out and left. The crack actually gets smaller as you climb and some very nice hand jams await just after the crux. The crack will eventually end in fingers towards the top of it. Rig a gnarly belay.

Pitch 3, 5.11: The bolts on this pitch were replaced in 2013. Reported to be anywhere between 5.10+ to a whole grade harder. Techy climbing leads left the a seam feature. Climb that until you can weave back right along a path of least resistance. 

Pitch 4: 50’ of OW.

Location

Left side Middle section

Protection

Standard rack of doubles to #4, wires, runners.

Photos

Did this route earlier this fall. Everything I heard about the face pitch after the roof sounded really scary so we traversed left to other routes via the Grand Traverse Ledge. Definately carry a #4 Camalot for the crux roof moves.

I suggest Green Savior Direct -> Tom's Thumb -> C.W.Hicks.

A good route, but if you are up to the grade I would reccommend Coatimundi Whiteout over this climb. Dec 29, 2008
ZachDKing
Prescott, AZ
ZachDKing   Prescott, AZ
Tom Thumb has been re-bolted! Thanks to Zach Harrison. I feel pretty comfortable with GM ratings and I must say the pitch that Zach re-bolted (originally rated 10c on the topo) certainly felt harder than 5.10. In my opinion it required 5.11+ effort with a little spice on the last bolts..maybe I'm just a weenie though..I'd be very interested to hear what other people think. Nov 13, 2013
Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
  5.11 PG13
Zach Harrison   Flagstaff
  5.11 PG13
I finally got on this thing after replacing the bolts on pitch three. I would say that it felt solid 5.11 to me, so at Granite Mtn that's 11a? That's what the pitch was rated in the GM fold out topo. Am not quite sure how grades work at Granite Mtn, haven't climbed enough routes there. I thought that pitch 2 was just as hard! It is likely that some holds have broken off over the years. Really fun non-stop action for first 80 feet with small runouts between bolts, but crux is right at one. Final 60 feet of pitch 3 is easier climbing on gear with hand size gear needed at belay ledge. Pitch 4 is 50 feet and runout but easy offwidth. I would recommend a rack of singles from BD # .3 to #4, 12 slings w/ some double runners. Would recommend starting just to the right of the first pitch and climbing the right facing dihedral and working left where possible, it's a nice 5.9ish warm up pitch w good rock and movement. Have fun kids! Jan 4, 2014
Goiks. Heads up climbing in order to reach the roof/hand crack. While the climbing is not that difficult it is worth a mention of the loose and unstable boulders you get to climb on and over. A fall in this section seems like a bad idea...I guess it is the price of admission in order to "enjoy" the crack above. Sep 1, 2018
TKlein
Tempe, AZ
TKlein   Tempe, AZ
Agree with Sean. Probably the worst rock I’ve encountered on the mountain. PG13 for leader and follower Sep 3, 2018
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11 PG13
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.11 PG13
I don’t use the word “spooky” all that often while describing routes;) Sep 3, 2018
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.11 PG13
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.11 PG13
Yes a little choss climbing through the dike before the roof. The roof is rad n burly, have your partner carry your helmet. Face pitch is amazing (the Money Pitch IMo) and an ass-kicker that took me several attempts to figure out n redpoint. Not 11a, holds must have broken. I removed the piton in the beginning by hand. There’s a good c3 placement in its absence. Bolt two has a loose hanger bring something to tighten if you care.
The natural path of the line is a little different than the topo shows in my opinion. I’ll add a photo to clarify. An excellent line, and a little serious. 2 days ago

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