Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: FA (aid) Lance & Dane Dougherty (A.1, 5.3) '68, FFA Jim Waugh, Dylan Williams '80 (2 pitches @ no hands rest) 1 pitch H. Suzuki '84
Page Views: 2,229 total · 16/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

50 feet off ground on right side of Flying Buttress is a large ledge. climb either hidden chimney (outside end) 5th class or p1 of Coke Bottle to ledge. Twin Cracks are the cracks. Fine face climbing around the cracks leads up to the no hands rest 12' below top out (11-). The rock quality deteriorates slightly as hard lie backing leads to the top (11+/12-).

Location

right side of flying buttress, one pitch up.

Protection

small nuts to medium camming units. Tree or friends for belay

Photos

This climb was INCREDIBLE fun!!! Mostly Granite Mountain 5.10/11- crack climbing to a tough sloping finger layback. The climb could use a little bit of cleaning because it isn't traveled too much. There are some grainy flakes on the right side approaching the crux section and some plants/grass after the crux (DOH!).

Highly, highly reccommended. Dec 29, 2008
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.12-
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.12-
recent traffic has cleaned this thing up. its well protected - get on it! Sep 26, 2017