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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coatimundi Whiteout/ Candyland Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad
FA: Stan Mish, Jim Waugh, and Herb North Jr., 1978
Page Views: 3,080 total, 23/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 13, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

As you are gazing up at the Classic, Said and Done, or Reunion, drift ever so slightly left and check out the giant flake splitter that defines Help me Mr. Wizard. This is an exciting pitch which will test nerves and staying power alike, and is probably PG-13.

Climb crack up to a point where there is a little roof. This section is kind of spicy. Climb out the roof around right to reach the splitter section to a small rest stance. Climbing it straight on like a splitter is the way to go. Better gear through this section. Eventually you will find yourself at a jug and burly mantle, in that order. Continue up the short slab to a fixed anchor.

Location

Left side of the Flying Buttress between Reunion and Said and Done.

Protection

Many small, medium cams, wires, and a runner or two.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Sweetness! Thanks Gabe for the motivation to get on this. Oct 30, 2017
Bobby Treadwell
Prescott, AZ
 
Bobby Treadwell   Prescott, AZ
 
Spectacular and sustained. This line is one of the best on granite mountain. Oct 31, 2012
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.11+
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.11+
Sustained! I found the crux to be pulling from under the low roof into the upper crack. Ok rest there, then fire to the top. Gear is hard to place and can be spooky as the flake flares- definately tests staying power- both mental and physical. Green aliens and #1 BD C3s are helpful. Offset aliens would probably work as well. Oct 17, 2009
Just an excellent testament to Sr. Stan's ability. (And I believe the name came from the throw to the mantle.) Nov 13, 2008
Stan "the Banditto" Mish did the BURLY FA back in the latter 70s or early 80s. Jan 2, 2007
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
I remember a dyno from the disappearing crack to get to the jug. Ouch, that was the place I asked for Mr. Wizard's help. Dec 8, 2006