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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jonny Woodward '88 (onsight)
Page Views: 202 total · 25/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Nov 20, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Its really good, and hard.
Try not to snap off the penis-jug in the beginning (try the route you'll see what I mean)

Powerful crimping past 4 bolts to a stance, then climb the corner using Houdini skills and granite wizardry past one piton to easier ground and a bolted anchor

Bolted by Jim Gaun, Bob Dubois, and Rand Black back in the 80s

Location

Left of Coke Bottle, Right of Ellis' Slip Chimney
Obvious clean-cut corner with 4 bolts

Protection

4 good bolts, one fixed lost arrow, and one green c3-sized cam.
an extra finger sized piece for the easier ground isn't a bad idea.

Photos

GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.12c
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.12c
As of now, the bolted anchor at the top is particularly atrocious (I equalized the bolts with a sling anyway). If you try this route and get to the anchor, continue past the anchor (.10-) to the big ledge about 15 feet further and belay from there - or lower off the bolts with your fingers crossed.

The anchor bolts will be replaced next season (2018) along with the rest of the time bombs that I've encountered throughout my Mtn adventures this season. Nov 20, 2017

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