Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jonny Woodward '88 (onsight)
Page Views: 297 total · 23/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Nov 20, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Its really good, and hard.

Sharp crimping past 4 bolts to a stance, then climb the corner using Houdini skills and granite wizardry past one bomber fixed piton to easier ground and a bolted anchor

Bolted by Jim Gaun, Bob Dubois, and Rand Black back in the 80s

Location

Left of Coke Bottle, Right of Ellis' Slip Chimney
Obvious clean-cut corner with 4 bolts

Protection

4 bolts, one fixed lost arrow, and one green c3-sized cam.
an extra finger sized piece for the easier ground isn't a bad idea.

Photos

GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.12c
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.12c
The bolted anchor has been replaced with SS hardware courtesy of the ASCA, however I’d still recommend just clipping a bolt for pro and continuing up to the huge ledge 20 feet above. There are several rope-hungry flakes below that make pulling the rope a risky option. Nov 20, 2017