Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Leo Henson 1988
Page Views: 1,097 total · 18/month
Shared By: Gabriel Kerbs on Jan 28, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

You can access it ground-up by climbing Witzblitz and then traversing right (just after the beargrass) to the dihedral with the peregrine crap at the base (3-bolt anchor)

Or, rappel in from the large ledge that's left of Kingpin's final pitch. Theres a bolted anchor on this ledge.

There is some mellow down-climbing/scrambling from the top of the cliff to reach this ledge.


From the anchor, climb the bolted corner until it ends and continue up the gently overhanging face. The climbing is on positive holds and some scary flakes; the rock throughout is less than perfect. But heck you can't beat the position. (I'd give it 2 stars if the pitch was off the ground)

The crux is the last 3 bolts and is powerful and sharp, but the rock is better for this section. 

Location Suggest change

On the large, slightly overhanging "posterboard" face left of Kingpin's final pitch 

Protection Suggest change

8 or 9 bolts, bolted anchors at bottom and top of pitch

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