Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Leo Henson 1988
Page Views: 155 total · 27/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Jan 28, 2019
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

One of the few (only?) rap-bolted lines at Granite Mountain.
 
You can access it ground-up by climbing Witzblitz and then traversing right (just after the beargrass) to the dihedral with the peregrine crap at the base (3-bolt anchor)
Or, rappel in from the large ledge that's left of Kingpin's final pitch  Theres a 3-bolt anchor to rap into the pitch on this ledge as well.  
There is some mellow down-climbing/scrambling from the top of the cliff to reach this ledge.

From the anchor, climb the bolted corner until it ends and continue up the gently overhanging face.  The climbing is on positive holds and some scary flakes; the rock throughout is less than perfect.  But heck you can't beat the position. (I'd give it 2 stars if the pitch was off the ground)

The crux is the last 3 bolts (5/16 buttonheads) and is powerful and sharp, but the rock is better for this section. 

Location

On the large, slightly overhanging "posterboard" face left of Kingpin's final pitch 

Protection

8 or 9 bolts, bolted anchors at bottom and top of pitch

Photos

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